High End Foundation Wardrobe

I don't know about you, but I'm of the view that foundations are worth going high end for. If it's going to be all over your face and form the base for all your other makeup, then I'm willing to spend a bit extra if it means a superior product. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure there's no shortage of affordable foundations that work brilliantly, but I just haven't tried that many (the one notable exception is Bourjois Healthy Mix Serum, which is hands down the best "drugstore" foundation I've encountered). I'm currently rotating between five (yes, five) high end foundations and thought I'd dedicate a post discussing them and their relative merits and shortcomings.

l-r: YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat in B40, Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation in 4.5, Chanel Vitalumière Aqua in B20, Dior Diorskin Nude BB Creme in 002, Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation in 013

l-r: Chanel Vitalumière Aqua in B20, Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation in 013, Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation in 4.5, YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat in B40, Dior Diorskin Nude BB Creme in 002

My favourite of the bunch is YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat in B40 (reviewed here and featured in my 2015 favourites). This is probably in my top 3 of all foundations I've used, second only to NARS Sheer Glow. It's so instantly beautifying, melts into the skin without texture or application issues, diffuses imperfections and unevenness, gives you that airbrushed, dewy (but not oily), soft focus glow, has fairly good coverage while not masking the skin, and is particularly kind on dry skin. If I want my best chance at a good skin day, especially if I'll be photographed, I'll reach for this or Sheer Glow.

My second favourite would have to be Chanel Vitalumière Aqua in B20 (reviewed here and featured in my 2014 favourites). It's such an excellent everyday foundation, especially when your skin is in decent shape. What I love most about it is that it's probably the most transfer-proof foundation I have, possibly because it's water-based, so it really adheres to the skin and isn't easily wiped off. The finish is more on the satin side than the YSL, and coverage is light to medium, but it looks so natural and undetectable while enlivening and perfecting the skin.

Next we have Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation in 013 (review here) and Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation in 4.5 (review here). I find these two pretty similar, with the main differences being coverage and finish. The Armani is a bit higher coverage and has a more semi-matte finish than the Koh Gen Do, which is more liquid in consistency and has a fresher, dewier, more translucent finish. Other than that, I find the two interchangeable. Both have coverage on the light side, so I tend to use 1.5 pumps rather than my usual 1. They're solid everyday foundations that feel lightweight, look natural on the skin, hold up decently and don't get too oily throughout the day, and generally perform well so long as the skin is cooperating (i.e. not going through a dry or blemish-ridden patch). As the Armani sets more matte than the Koh Gen Do, I like the effect of spritzing a hydrating mist all over to make it less dull and flat, and minimise any cakiness from powders I've placed over my foundation.

Finally, there's Dior Diorskin Nude BB Creme in 002. As I mentioned in my current makeup menu, I'm not the hugest fan of this one but I'm forcing myself to use it so it's not completely neglected. I don't know what it is about the Dior, but the slightly thicker, mousse-like texture doesn't entirely agree with my skin. It's probably targeted more for oily/combination skin than dry or dry/combo. It feels a bit tackier and heavier when applied, and doesn't give my preferred glowy finish. This one is a lot more satin, bordering on matte. It can highlight dry patches and doesn't apply as evenly as my other bases. I find fingers work the best, applying a small amount of product into the skin in sections, but usually I use a brush since it's quicker. I try to make it more serum-like and easier to blend by mixing a drop of face oil into one pump, then finishing with Smashbox Photo Finish Primer Water or MAC Fix+ to give my complexion more life, dewiness and moisture.

Colour-wise, I would say I'm between NC 20 and NC 25 (probably closer to NC 25). Of the 5, the Chanel is the best colour match for me, with its beige/yellow tones. The Koh Gen Do is a touch too light, especially in the summer, and much too pink. The Armani also leans pink (or peach-toned), and is slightly dark when compared with my neck (I learned this the hard way when inspecting my face in natural daylight while waiting for the train). The YSL is also a bit darker than my natural skin colour and the colour's not perfect either, but at least not too pink (it's more golden brown/orangey, when I need yellow or neutral/beige). The Dior is yet again, pink-toned with a warm brown tint, though it does have enough yellow in it to make it work. So long as we're not scrutinising too closely, all of them match me well enough (with the exception of the Koh Gen Do, which I should have bought in 213) and most are probably my closest matches with the shades available.

Current Makeup Menu

I've been super lazy with my makeup lately. I've also decided to stop doing regimented monthly favourites posts and instead do ad hoc posts of the products I've been reaching for whenever an update might be of interest. Most mornings during the past couple of weeks, I've adhered to a fairly pared down routine (from my previous standards at least). A lot of it is motivated by the desire to stay in bed for as long as possible, which naturally cuts into the time I have to get ready.

After washing and moisturising my face (I've been loving a sample of the hydrating but not oily Innisfree Perfect 9 Repair Lotion), I start with the eyes. While usually one of the most enjoyable aspects of makeup for me, I've ditched all my powder eyeshadows or need for brushes in favour of one product only: KIKO Long Lasting Stick Eyeshadow. I alternate between two shades, Rosy Brown (for a more cool-toned, mauvey taupe option) and Golden Brown (more neutral bronze). Touted as a dupe for By Terry Ombre Blackstar Cream Eyeshadow, these are quite simply the best shadow stick I've come across. The quality is superb for the price. They're strongly pigmented, very metallic but not gritty or patchy, long lasting, easy to apply and blend, and most importantly, flattering on the eyes. So quick, fuss-free and reliable. I just whack some onto the lid and blend out the edges with my finger. I also run the stick along the lower lash line. It takes about 30 seconds per eye and the eyeshadow is done.

l-r: KIKO Long Lasting Stick Eyeshadow in Rosy Brown (05), Golden Brown (06)

Next is eyeliner. I've been trying out the affordable Essence Eyeliner Pen Waterproof which I used my $5 birthday voucher from Priceline towards. It's only so-so. The colour is pleasantly black, but it's the shape of the tip that doesn't work for me. It doesn't give me enough control when extending the line and drawing the flick. It's more of a hard felt tip rather than a flexible but firm thin brush like my superior Japan-made Creer Beaute La Rose de Versailles liquid eyeliner, which I'd use all the time except that it's running out. The Essence also dries in a way that if you go over the dried eyeliner, it'll flake off.

After eyeliner, I follow with whatever mascara I have available. The two I've been reaching for are in their final stages and nothing to write home about. I'm more or less waiting for them to be finished entirely before cracking open one of the many brand new mascaras I have waiting in the wings.

Next comes skin. Some days if I'm interested in an injection of extra glow, I'll apply a small amount of MAC Strobe Cream all over like I would a luminising primer. I'm having something of a lovefest with Strobe Cream at the moment and think it's incredibly underrated despite its cult product status. The colour is beautiful, the texture is great, it's so multifunctional and compared with other liquid highlighting products like Chanel Le Blanc de Chanel Sheer Illuminating Base or Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector Liquid, it's not that expensive. I find applying Strobe Cream to my bare face before foundation results in a more natural, subtle effect than if I mixed it into my foundation. I am slightly paranoid that smoothing it over my nose and forehead has a tendency to break me out, but it seems fine over the cheeks.

Recently, I've been sticking to one pump of Dior Diorskin Nude BB Creme in Fair (02) mixed with a drop of Tarte Maracuja Oil applied with my Zoeva Silk Finish brush for my base. I don't know if the texture of my Dior is a bit off, but I don't really like it. It feels slightly moussey and thicker in consistency than most liquid foundations I'm used to. Coverage is definitely on the light side, which wouldn't be too much of a problem if my skin was in good shape, but lately I've had some dryness, redness and break outs which call for concealer after the foundation is applied. Otherwise, you can see most of the underlying blemished and uneven skin peeking through. Even with the drop of oil mixed in and thoroughly buffed in with my brush, the BB Creme doesn't meld or sink completely into my skin. I do notice, especially if I examine my skin closely in the mirror, parts that still sit on top of the skin, especially around the nose. The finish isn't as brightening or dewy as I'd like, though it's not exactly matte. It's just a bit flat, albeit "natural" (though the colour is a little too pink-toned for me). Additionally, as the day goes on, the foundation starts to break up on my skin, especially visible on the cheeks. It's not as effectively skin-perfecting, illuminating or easy to work with than the much cheaper Garnier BB Cream Miracle Skin Perfector Combination to Oily Skin. However, I'm persevering with the Dior because it was pricey and if I don't force myself to use it, it'll never be touched.

Last we have another favourite aspect of makeup for me apart from the eyes — blush. The two I've been loving lately have been Benefit Rockateur and Max Factor Creme Puff Blush in Nude Mauve. The Benefit is a brightening, shimmery pinky peach that's more girly, summery and warming, whereas the plummy brown, satin-finish Nude Mauve is more cool-toned, sculpting and polished. Nude Mauve is a versatile hybrid bronzer and blush that I can just whack on without being concerned about placement or overdoing it, since the colour payoff is on the subdued side. It has a softer baked texture and blends without any issues. I'm still loving my Wayne Goss Brush #14 for blush, though I've also been reaching for my angled Zoeva Luxe Sheer Cheek Brush.

l-r: Benefit Rockateur, Max Factor Nude Mauve

Depending on time constraints and whether I feel like it, I'll highlight and/or powder after blush. I did go through a phase of preferring certain colour-shifting eyeshadows (Kat Von D Metal Crush Eyeshadow in Thunderstruck, Makeup Geek Duochrome Eyeshadow in I'm Peachless) to dedicated powder highlighters for my cheek highlight, but I've found the texture of them usually isn't as forgiving on the skin. They're not as easily blended and can emphasise pores and sit on the skin in an obvious manner. I've been mostly using Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector Pressed in Champagne Pop (can't beat the colour and the BAM! HIGHLIGHT effect) or Dior Diorskin Poudre Shimmer in Amber Diamond (probably the most refined highlighter I have, along with Charlotte Tilbury Filmstar Bronze & Glow), applied with a Burberry No.09 Socket Line Brush. Powder has been Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Powder in N°20 which I actually really like, except I suspect that might have more to do with the fact it's Chanel than anything else.

As a final step, I'll put on some lip balm. I do this for an odd purpose — it's not to hydrate my lips, but rather, to get rid of any foundation on my lips. I'll remove the lip balm with a tissue which removes any foundation. I've been rediscovering the cult product Lucas' Papaw Ointment. My tube is God knows how old, but it still works perfectly. The shine it gives the lips is super pretty and it's an excellent multipurpose ointment that soothes, protects and moisturises.

High End Highlighter Wardrobe

Highlighter seems to be having a resurgent moment, despite never truly dropping off the radar. Still, with the release of Becca x Jaclyn Hill Shimmering Skin Perfector Pressed in Champagne Pop (purportedly breaking Sephora records for sales of a new item) and talk of "strobing", highlighting seems to be back bigger than ever. I've always loved highlighter (the obsession started at the very beginning of the blog), and still regard it as one of the most enjoyable aspects of makeup. Here, I've rounded up my high end powder highlighters. Among them are some of my favourite makeup items ever.

theBalm Mary-Lou Manizer
Generally regarded as one of the best highlighters out there, and for good reason. For anyone remotely into highlighter, the Mary-Lou Manizer is a must have (chances are, you already own it). This is the strongest, most visible highlighter out of the 5 I've featured. The texture can't be faulted: smooth, soft and buttery, almost creamy, not powdery in the slightest. It blends effortlessly. As it's so pigmented, it requires a light hand and applies best with a small fluffy brush like the SUQQU Cheek Brush.

Napoleon Perdis The Ultimate Contour Palette Highlight shade
Recently included in my January 2015 Favourites, there's been no loss of enthusiasm since. This one is special because it's glowy as opposed to shimmery or metallic. It's also the most refined in that you can't detect any shimmer particles — it just projects a luminous sheen. Excellent texture and quality.

Stila All Over Shimmer Powder in Kitten
I was fortunate to win this in the Stila Party in a Box set that also had a Lip Glaze in Kitten. Since then, I admit I haven't reached for it very often. I do like the colour, but texture-wise it's a bit chunky and not as finely milled as the others. The shimmer is more frosty on the skin and looks slightly gritty and dry.

Dior Diorskin Poudre Shimmer in Amber Diamond
One of those products I'm so thankful to have in my makeup collection, because I'm not sure how I could get my hands on it now. Christine of Temptalia calls it her "all-time favourite highlighter", though that declaration was 7 years ago. Still, I can understand why. As it's a gradated strip, there's more choice and versatility with the colour selection. Overall, it produces a very flattering, softly glowy effect that instantly adds radiance and dimension to the face. It has a slightly harder texture than the others so I prefer using it with a flatter, firmer brush like the Real Techniques Setting Brush. A softer, fluffier brush might not pick up enough product and distribute it in a concentrated enough manner along the cheekbones. Full review with swatches here.

Charlotte Tilbury Filmstar Bronze & Glow Highlight shade
Ahhh, the Filmstar Bronze & Glow. Such an incredible contouring palette and worth every penny. The Highlight shade in this duo is powerfully luminising but not greasy or pore-accentuating. Being so smooth and soft in texture but not crumbly, it blends with hardly any effort. I almost exclusively apply it with the Charlotte Tilbury Powder & Sculpt Brush which places and diffuses the product brilliantly.

l-r: theBalm Mary-Lou Manizer, Napoleon Perdis Highlight, Stila Kitten, Dior Amber Diamond, Charlotte Tilbury Highlight

l-r: theBalm Mary-Lou Manizer, Napoleon Perdis Highlight, Stila Kitten, Dior Amber Diamond, Charlotte Tilbury Highlight

Colour-wise, theBalm Mary-Lou Manizer is the most yellow-leaning/champagne. The Napoleon Perdis is an ethereal pearly pink and the lightest. Stila Kitten is a rose gold/pinky bronze with a touch of frostiness. Dior Amber Diamond (mixed together) leans the most orange/copper, though the exact colour obviously depends on what section of the strip your brush is dipped into. (The lightest shade to the left, a pale yellow gold, is a stunning inner corner highlight.) The Charlotte Tilbury is like a peachier Mary-Lou Manizer, with glints of yellow, orange and pink when inspected under the light.

There's just something about highlighter that injects instant glamour and lift to the face. It literally brings light to the complexion and is that final, beautifying step that ties everything together. I don't wear it every day, but when I do, I'm reminded how much an impact it does make. Plus, it's just fun. Who doesn't want to cheat higher, more prominent cheekbones or give themselves a touch more glow? Since I took photos for this post, I may have purchased theBalm Cindy-Lou Manizer and pre-ordered Becca Champagne Pop. I'm still looking to eventually add Kevyn Aucoin Candlelight to my collection. And while it's not a powder, I think I need some of the MAC Cream Colour Bases. I was fixated on highlighter in the early stages of the blog and I'm still hunting down highlighters now. Some old loves show no signs of fading.

July Favourites

Another month has flown by in an entirely nondescript fashion. I haven't bought any new makeup in a while (thank goodness), though skin care is another story. Sometimes in the mornings when I'm getting ready, I'm almost grateful for all the quality purchases I made at the height of my makeup obsession, because I simply wouldn't spend the time or money now hunting down the same items. If I've learnt anything during almost three years of buying more makeup than I know what to do with, it's go for the real deal. Had I avoided countless inferior but cheaper "dupes" of the higher end stuff I really wanted, my present collection would be a lot more focused, of an overall higher standard, better loved and utilised, and I would've saved money in the long run.

Morrocanoil Hair Treatment
There's a reason why certain products have cult status. I am so glad that I bought this a couple of years ago based purely on hype and positive reviews, especially since it was generously discounted as well. I now can't imagine doing without it. For someone who is clueless and almost completely disinterested in hair and hair care, it's become an indispensable part of my routine. If you could call washing my hair every couple of nights in the shower with an el cheapo SLS-free shampoo, sloppily drying my locks with a towel, tying up my hair in a bun, sleeping, and running one pump of Morrocanoil through my semi-damp hair the morning after, a "routine". This stuff has essentially replaced both conditioner and a hair treatment/mask. It ensures my hair isn't completely ruined, splitting and dried out despite my neglect. Something about it rescues my hair with minimal effort and gives it texture, smoothness and life when it should have none.

Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentrè
I neglected this moisturiser for a while because I failed to see what the fuss was about. I had such sky high expectations that invariably I'd be disappointed with the reality of what it was: a basic, no frills, functional moisturiser, the only added allure being that it was French and a few famous people/makeup artists recommended it. After I got over the fact it wasn't some all-purpose miracle product, I began to appreciate it on a simpler level. Non-irritating and scentless, it's a good thirst quencher for dry skin in winter and nicely preps the face for foundation, providing a smoother, well hydrated canvas.

Omorovicza Queen of Hungary Mist
I keep going back to this post-cleanse hydrating toner after lengthy stretches of relying on my Avène Thermal Spring Water. Yes, it's pricey and the attractive packaging and fancy name play an undeniable role in my enjoyment of it, but it's also calming, refreshing and adds extra moisture and an instant plumping effect to my skin before I apply any serums and creams. I prefer to spritz three pumps into my hand then press the toner into my skin with my palms rather than misting it all over, as I find this reduces product wastage and ensures even distribution.

Dior Diorskin Poudre Shimmer in Amber Diamond
A classic example of a product I'm thankful to have acquired when I was more of a makeup junkie than I am now. I hunted it down after almost losing hope it'd ever be mine by buying it from Sephora via Tarazz during a $10 bulk shipping promotion which I shared with a friend. Forget theBalm Mary-Lou Manizer or Jemma Kidd Dewy Glow All Over Radiance Crème in Rose Gold, this is the only highlighter I've been reaching for lately. I apply it using my Real Techniques Setting Brush to the tops of my cheekbones, under my browbone and occasionally down the bridge of my nose to add more shape to my face and inject a touch of that highly prized ethereal glow.

NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer in Custard
My skin has been shit for months now, with the remnants of breakouts so numerous they could pass for freckles. This is the best concealer I've used in terms of coverage, lasting power and application. When I can't be bothered applying foundation to my whole face, dabbing this over my spots and redness does the trick. I don't need to fiddle around with brushes as it applies easily with fingers and chucking it in the makeup bag ensures I've packed the tools for on-the-spot correction.

Real Techniques Multi Task Brush
I don't watch makeup tutorials on YouTube with anywhere near as much regularity as I used to, but checking out a couple of Lauren Curtis's videos recently reminded me just how useful observing someone putting on their makeup can be. I noticed Lauren used the Real Techniques Multi Task Brush to apply her foundation over the highly favoured Real Techniques Buffing Brush, traditionally my #1 foundation brush of choice. Tanya Burr has also been giving her Bobbi Brown Face Blender Brush a lot of love, so I was persuaded to make the switch to a rounded, fluffier, softer brush. The result was a revelation. I think a bit of experimentation is required in terms of what foundation works best for what brush, but I've been loving NARS Sheer Glow with the Multi Task Brush. I find that I get less streaking and don't have work as hard blending the foundation into my skin for a seamless, natural-looking but airbrushed finish.

Diamonds and Dior

Dior Diorskin Poudre Shimmer in Amber Diamond (002). I could've snapped up this famed highlighter from StrawberryNET ages ago, but I rationalised I already had Jemma Kidd Dewy Glow All Over Radiance Crème in Rose Gold and theBalm Mary-Lou Manizer, so I passed. Soon enough, it was sold out and I never saw it make an appearance again. I'd always included it on my wishlist, but given how difficult it was to track down online (except this one semi-dodgy looking website which I didn't want to take a chance on), procuring it was pushed to the back of my mind. When Tarazz recently held a $10 flat rate shipping promotion for purchases from Sephora, I split the cost with a friend and took the opportunity to finally make Amber Diamond mine.

In sunlight

Amber Diamond consists of 5 strips of yellow/peachy/gold shimmer. A couple of the strips are tiny, so it would be a challenge to use them in isolation. I find it a bit unusual to have to select from the different gradations of colour because I'm used to highlighters being just one shade, but I normally just focus around the middle and dab my brush on either side to get a little bit of everything. It's still distinctly shimmery, but the particles are very fine and impart more of a luminous sheen than something more obvious and almost gritty. It's the only highlighter that I don't hate when I take it down the bridge of my nose — it doesn't look strange or unnatural. It's more subtle and glowy than theBalm Mary-Lou Manizer which is stronger but less refined, but it's also more pronounced than the unassuming Jemma Kidd Dewy Glow All Over Radiance Crème in Rose Gold. It's quickly become my preferred go-to highlighter and something I eagerly reach for every day. I definitely like it more than my theBalm, though I'm not sure whether it overtakes the Jemma Kidd as my absolute favourite. There are undoubtedly far cheaper alternatives which give more or less the same effect (such as the Models Prefer highlighter in Glitz & Glamour), but after lusting over Amber Diamond and holding out for as long as I did, my patience has been rewarded and it's lived up to my lofty expectations.