Current Makeup Menu #3

It's been almost nine months since my last makeup menu post, so I'm long overdue for an update. Ever since I moved to my own place a year ago, I've been more or less sticking with a few select products for months at a time to do my makeup in the morning. The main reason is that I no longer have a mirrored wardrobe, so I don't have immediate access to my entire makeup collection (housed in two 4-drawer storage units on a shelf inside) when I'm doing my face. I have to put aside a few products in a separate, smaller Muji organiser which I keep on my dresser beside the mirror on my bedroom wall. The upside to this is I've finally used up products I never thought I'd finish, like foundations, but the downside is less variety and the old saying, "out of sight, out of mind". Having said that, here are the current products I've been really enjoying and reaching for lately.

For face, I've recently returned to Bourjois Healthy Mix Serum (in 52 Vanille) and I'm so glad I picked this up again. The shade match is almost bang on (I've previously used 53 Beige clair on its own, which was always too dark, and then mixed it with 52 Vanille to lighten it), which is crucial given the previous foundation I'd been trying to use up (Bourjois 123 Perfect CC Cream in 33 Rose Beige) was too dark and pinky brown. I appreciate that the foundation is yellow-based and illuminating, without being greasy. It's natural and skin-like, but also gives your complexion a translucent glow that brightens and corrects unevenness and dullness. The lasting power or adherence to the skin could probably be better, but it's an ideal everyday "drugstore" foundation that is top notch in quality.

Speaking of Bourjois CC Cream, I'd previously been mixing it with a bit of Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector in Moonstone in an attempt to lighten the foundation and inject some extra luminosity. I don't know what it is about the formula, but it is truly the best liquid highlighter I've mixed with a base. Other products can appear overly glittery or chunky upon closer inspection, or get oily after a couple of hours and start to break up on the skin or slide off during the day. But the Becca almost has primer-like properties while containing the most refined shimmer, giving the skin an undetectable but effective glowy boost. Previously swatched here.

I asked my friend to buy the Physicians Formula Butter Bronzer for me while she was on a recent holiday to the US since it's always sold out at Priceline (plus it's $30, no thanks). I opted for the shade Bronzer rather than Light Bronzer just because I'd read that it was slightly more cool-toned and darker, which I thought would suit my skin tone better. I have been absolutely adoring this bronzer. It's everything I hoped for and more. Incredibly smooth, soft but not powdery, easy to blend, not too pigmented that it's hard to work with, but pigmented enough so that it actually shows up and does something without much effort. I love the colour, I love the scent, it's a breeze to apply and blend with my Charlotte Tilbury Powder & Sculpt Brush, I've been reaching for it nonstop since it arrived and I can't imagine wanting to use anything else for a long time.

In the last Priceline 40% off cosmetics sale, I purchased one of these Revlon Colorstay Creme Eye Shadows in 710 Caramel. It's a little lighter than Maybelline Color Tattoo in Bad to the Bronze and the texture is much smoother, thinner and more emollient. You need to apply quite thin layers on the eyes and build up the colour. I've been enjoying this as a standalone eyeshadow (though I do have to use about 3-4 layers for my desired opacity, and even then, I always use a darker eyeshadow closer to the lashline for added definition), as well as an eyeshadow base (I just apply one layer and blend out with my fingers). The aspect of these that was most surprising but pleasing is that they're loaded with fine shimmer that's really sparkly and eye-catching under bright lights and reminiscent of more high end cream shadows like Chanel Illusion D'Ombre Long Wear Luminous Eyeshadow. The price point is very reasonable too ($14.95 for 5.2g, so I only paid $8.97 during the 40% off sale).

I overlooked this Nudestix Magnetic Eye Color in Night for a while after a friend gave it away to me ages ago, but recently realised I reach for it almost every day. It is JET black, velvety matte, has astounding lasting power and once set, does not budge. Truly a quality product and worth the money. I use it mainly to fill in my eyeliner once I draw the shape in with a finer felt tip/brush eyeliner (I've been loving Maybelline HyperSharp Wing Liquid Liner), since it is a thicker/chubbier tip so not as precise as a conventional pencil liner. The fact it's so high performing has made me realise when it comes to eye makeup, a reliable, truly black eyeliner is an absolute essential.

Lanolips Banana Balm

Finally, we have a bit of a novelty item in Lanolips Banana Balm Lip Sheen 3-in-1. I swatched this in David Jones and was captivated by the old school banana lolly scent and the pink sparkles against a pale yellow gloss that reminded me of Glossier Birthday Balm Dotcom. The downside is that the colour is on the light side and does give a whitish cast, but if you apply a small amount and/or lay down a colour first, that can easily be overcome. In any event, the scent and the glitter has me sold.

l-r: Lanolips Banana Balm, Revlon Caramel, Physicians Formula Bronzer, Nudestix Night

l-r: Revlon Caramel, Physicians Formula Bronzer, Nudestix Night

Quick, Full Face Makeup

I don't know about you, but I'm fairly hopeless when it comes to fast makeup. Fast for me is 10-15 minutes (and let's face it, it's always more 15 minutes). Lately, I've been trying to simplify my routine so I can get away with less effort as I'm getting ready, all the while maintaining a full face approach, using few brushes as possible and placing a premium on products that will last the distance. Here's what I've been reaching for:

I start with a cleansed face and one pump of my current daytime moisturiser, Botani Boost Balancing Moisturiser. I purchased this moisturiser during Priceline's last 40% off skincare sale and have been liking it so far. Consistency-wise and in terms of application and how it dries on the skin, it reminds me of a more fluid, less tacky Trilogy Balancing Face Lotion. It's not as rich, instantly hydrating and soothing as La Roche-Posay Toleriane Riche, my favoured moisturiser for this time of year as the weather starts to cool down. However, the Botani has its advantages in that it is almost primer-like once absorbed into the skin, with a slight stickiness and no oiliness whatsoever which helps to prolong whatever foundation is placed on top of it.

Speaking of foundation, I've been squeezing a dollop of Bobbi Brown BB Cream in Fair into my hand, pressing my palms together and slapping the product onto my face. It's the quickest way to apply my base and does away with brushes entirely. When I first tried the Bobbi Brown BB cream in summer, I was disappointed with it as it sat on top of the skin and transferred/moved around crazily. But now that it's approaching winter and my skin is getting drier, plus with the primer-like Botani applied before, the BB cream just blends into and sticks to my face marvelously. In fact, I have to work relatively quickly to get it all on and blended evenly with my fingers before it starts to set. I'm most pleased with the product not balling up or getting blended away to nothingness even with fairly vigorous circular and smoothing hand actions, as has been my experience with similar products like Garnier Miracle Skin Cream. It gives a truly natural, soft focus and brightening finish, but is a light veil rather than anything heavier or more effective at hiding blemishes and perfecting skin tone. Occasionally, if I need a boost in coverage, I'll go over areas of redness or in need of highlighting (mainly T-zone and under the eyes) with my trusty NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer in Custard, still the best concealer I've tried.

For eyes, I've been also doing away with brushes and using just one product for eyeshadow, Maybelline Color Tattoo in Creamy Beige, supposedly a dupe for MAC Paint Pot in Groundwork which I've been meaning to buy for years. The midtone mushroom/taupe/putty shade provides just the right amount of definition, particularly for glasses wearers, without appearing too heavy or unnatural. The colour leans neutral enough that it doesn't drain the complexion like a lot of grey-leaning shades can. Next comes the hardest part which is doing my eyeliner with Dolly Wink Liquid Eyeliner, the results of which vary on a daily basis (not from the product itself which is brilliant, just from my unreliable hand). I'm back on an old fave, the tragically discontinued KIKO Eye Pencil in Glamorous, to define my lower lash line. The bright metallic copper complements deep brown eyes and contrasts well with the matte greige eyeshadow. I've been loyal to Essence I Love Extreme Crazy Volume Mascara, featured in my last makeup menu. I've already purchased a backup and can't picture myself using anything else. It's so affordable, very black, long lasting, lengthens, curls, adds volume, doesn't flake, serves margaritas and gives back massages.

l-r: Maybelline Creamy Beige, Clinique Nude Pop, KIKO Glamorous, Dolly Wink eyeliner

Finally, for cheeks, I've been rotating between NARS Madly, Benefit Rockateur, and Clinique Cheek Pop in Nude Pop, with the latter receiving the most love. Since the rest of the face is fairly minimal and dull, the warm peachy-beige Nude Pop perks the complexion right up and injects enough colour without being too red or orange. This is the only product I apply with a brush, being the angled, synthetic Morphe E4. It's natural, flattering, lasts longer than most blushes, and the spongy, bouncy Cheek Pop formula melds invisibly into the skin rather than sitting on top of it.

Current Makeup Menu #2

I was contemplating doing a "Best of 2016" post, but ultimately decided against it as I had no clue what would be on the list. I didn't blog for 3 months and averaged about 2 posts a month, so my engagement with makeup and product discoveries were all a bit plodding and piecemeal. Usually I look back on what I blogged about to get a sense of the stuff I enjoyed in the past year, but nothing stood out to me when I reviewed what I'd written about. Rather than force the issue, I thought I'd do a current makeup loves post instead. On that topic, I do have something to say.

I've switched back to Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua after persevering quite joylessly with Dior BB Creme. I forgot what an absolutely incredible foundation this is. It's in my top 3 all-time favourites alongside NARS Sheer Glow and YSL Le Teint Touche Eclat. Definitely a better summer foundation than for the colder months (the YSL is better for winter as it's more hydrating/forgiving), but I haven't experienced any issues with it highlighting dry patches as I have occasionally in the past. Could just be my skin's in decent condition at the moment. Not too dry, not too oily, more or less unblemished (knock on wood). With an unproblematic canvas, Vitalumiere Aqua works super well. It's immediately flattering but believable. Makes the skin look softly luminous, lifted, more plump and youthful. It blends in effortlessly, never sitting on top of the skin, and doesn't ever look too heavy or obvious. Just a high quality, high performing foundation that I must remember to repurchase when I run out.

I've also been turning to Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Powder to set my face with my Wayne Goss Brush 00. Previously I didn't think it did much, but I probably was just using it all wrong. I find the key is not using too much product, finding the right brush, and applying only a light, thin layer. It takes down unwanted shine a notch or two without totally mattifying the skin, and minimises the need to blot my face down the track (I still do it, but less product comes off). I like that it's undetectable on the skin and doesn't weigh it down with the appearance of a powder caked on top.

Pixi Glow Mist is a product I've been meaning to try for ages, especially after hearing it being compared with Tatcha Dewy Skin Face Mist, the price of which I could never justify, never mind it's not even sold in Australia. (Seriously, $48 USD or $70 for 40ml of liquid you spritz on your face for fun. Can't do it.) To me, the main things I look out for in a mist are a) if it feels good on the skin, i.e. isn't noticeably drying, irritating or otherwise uncomfortable b) if it does the job, i.e. makes my makeup look fresher and my complexion dewier if I've overdone it with the powders or my foundation's too matte/flat c) if there are any ingredients I should be wary of, like alcohol or menthol. Glow Mist ticks all the boxes, plus it was a far more affordable price point for double the amount you get in the Tatcha at 80ml (I bought it in a pack with Glow Tonic on sale from ASOS for about $45).

I've heard good things about Essence I Love Extreme Crazy Volume Mascara (especially from ozproductjunkie), so I purchased a tube during one of Priceline's 40% off cosmetics sales. I finally opened mine up a few weeks ago, and I really like it. It reminds me so much of Benefit They're Real, but is a fraction of the price. The wand, formula, application and effect are very similar. My only minor gripe is that it could do a better job at getting to the outer lashes, but I can overlook that shortcoming since it does everything else so well for being so affordable. I honestly don't know why I'd buy any other mascara from now on when this is $5.75 and so effective. As its name suggests, it builds up lots of thickness and volume in the lashes, without looking too spidery and clumpy. Separation is good, curl is good, lasting power is great and it does a good job on the bottom lashes as well without smudging too much throughout the day.

In a recent Colourpop free shipping promo, I ordered Mr. Bing Liner (a collaboration with YouTuber KathleenLights). The purchase was mainly spurred by curiosity more than anything, since Kathleen raved so much about the formula and I haven't been overly impressed with all that many pencil eyeliners I've tried. Since it arrived, I've been using this to define my lower lash line daily. I like the warm chocolately brown colour, wear time is excellent and it doesn't budge. The fine tip allows for precise application and the twist up mechanism is convenient (no pesky, wasteful sharpening ever!). The formula isn't completely soft and gel-like, but it's not totally dry and hard either. It's a little waxy, but still has a bit of give upon contact with skin.

l-r: NYX Abu Dhabi, Colourpop Mr. Bing, NARS The Multiple in Orgasm

My friend gave me her unwanted mini of NARS The Multiple in Orgasm and I've been reaching for this as part of my "quick" makeup with minimal (for me) products. Basically using it as a substitute for Stila Convertible Colour in Gerbera in my go-to low-key makeup post (ditching the cream pot eyeshadows for my beloved KIKO Long Lasting Stick Eyeshadow and swapping pencil eyeliner for liquid felt tip eyeliner). This product is a faithful interpretation of Orgasm powder blush but in cream blush form. The golden sheen comes out a touch more than in the pressed version, but there's still that distinctive warm, translucent, corally baby pink. I literally draw on a few strokes onto my cheek and then use my fingers to blend out the edges. The lasting power isn't as good as the powder blush and you have to be a little careful so it's not patchy upon application as the formula is on the thin side but quite emollient (not greasy however). I love the small size and the fact it doesn't require a brush to use, making it super portable and ideal for travel.

Lastly, we have NYX Soft Matte Lip Cream in Abu Dhabi. To me, this is possibly the most perfect nude I've encountered. If you're light (NC 20-25) and Asian/yellow-toned, I highly recommend you seek out Abu Dhabi and try it. It's like MAC Patisserie on steroids (or the bolder, fully matte version). The only minor downside is it does settle a little bit in the lip lines, but I usually just rub the product in with my finger or blot with a tissue or the back of my hand. The lasting power isn't amazing, but perhaps to be expected for a light MLLB colour. I couldn't find this shade individually to purchase in any Priceline or Target, so I had to buy it in a set called "The Nudes" with Simply Nude Lip Cream in Sable and Intense Butter Gloss in Chocolate Crepe. Worth it.

High End Foundation Wardrobe

I don't know about you, but I'm of the view that foundations are worth going high end for. If it's going to be all over your face and form the base for all your other makeup, then I'm willing to spend a bit extra if it means a superior product. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure there's no shortage of affordable foundations that work brilliantly, but I just haven't tried that many (the one notable exception is Bourjois Healthy Mix Serum, which is hands down the best "drugstore" foundation I've encountered). I'm currently rotating between five (yes, five) high end foundations and thought I'd dedicate a post discussing them and their relative merits and shortcomings.

l-r: YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat in B40, Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation in 4.5, Chanel Vitalumière Aqua in B20, Dior Diorskin Nude BB Creme in 002, Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation in 013

l-r: Chanel Vitalumière Aqua in B20, Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation in 013, Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation in 4.5, YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat in B40, Dior Diorskin Nude BB Creme in 002

My favourite of the bunch is YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat in B40 (reviewed here and featured in my 2015 favourites). This is probably in my top 3 of all foundations I've used, second only to NARS Sheer Glow. It's so instantly beautifying, melts into the skin without texture or application issues, diffuses imperfections and unevenness, gives you that airbrushed, dewy (but not oily), soft focus glow, has fairly good coverage while not masking the skin, and is particularly kind on dry skin. If I want my best chance at a good skin day, especially if I'll be photographed, I'll reach for this or Sheer Glow.

My second favourite would have to be Chanel Vitalumière Aqua in B20 (reviewed here and featured in my 2014 favourites). It's such an excellent everyday foundation, especially when your skin is in decent shape. What I love most about it is that it's probably the most transfer-proof foundation I have, possibly because it's water-based, so it really adheres to the skin and isn't easily wiped off. The finish is more on the satin side than the YSL, and coverage is light to medium, but it looks so natural and undetectable while enlivening and perfecting the skin.

Next we have Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation in 013 (review here) and Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation in 4.5 (review here). I find these two pretty similar, with the main differences being coverage and finish. The Armani is a bit higher coverage and has a more semi-matte finish than the Koh Gen Do, which is more liquid in consistency and has a fresher, dewier, more translucent finish. Other than that, I find the two interchangeable. Both have coverage on the light side, so I tend to use 1.5 pumps rather than my usual 1. They're solid everyday foundations that feel lightweight, look natural on the skin, hold up decently and don't get too oily throughout the day, and generally perform well so long as the skin is cooperating (i.e. not going through a dry or blemish-ridden patch). As the Armani sets more matte than the Koh Gen Do, I like the effect of spritzing a hydrating mist all over to make it less dull and flat, and minimise any cakiness from powders I've placed over my foundation.

Finally, there's Dior Diorskin Nude BB Creme in 002. As I mentioned in my current makeup menu, I'm not the hugest fan of this one but I'm forcing myself to use it so it's not completely neglected. I don't know what it is about the Dior, but the slightly thicker, mousse-like texture doesn't entirely agree with my skin. It's probably targeted more for oily/combination skin than dry or dry/combo. It feels a bit tackier and heavier when applied, and doesn't give my preferred glowy finish. This one is a lot more satin, bordering on matte. It can highlight dry patches and doesn't apply as evenly as my other bases. I find fingers work the best, applying a small amount of product into the skin in sections, but usually I use a brush since it's quicker. I try to make it more serum-like and easier to blend by mixing a drop of face oil into one pump, then finishing with Smashbox Photo Finish Primer Water or MAC Fix+ to give my complexion more life, dewiness and moisture.

Colour-wise, I would say I'm between NC 20 and NC 25 (probably closer to NC 25). Of the 5, the Chanel is the best colour match for me, with its beige/yellow tones. The Koh Gen Do is a touch too light, especially in the summer, and much too pink. The Armani also leans pink (or peach-toned), and is slightly dark when compared with my neck (I learned this the hard way when inspecting my face in natural daylight while waiting for the train). The YSL is also a bit darker than my natural skin colour and the colour's not perfect either, but at least not too pink (it's more golden brown/orangey, when I need yellow or neutral/beige). The Dior is yet again, pink-toned with a warm brown tint, though it does have enough yellow in it to make it work. So long as we're not scrutinising too closely, all of them match me well enough (with the exception of the Koh Gen Do, which I should have bought in 213) and most are probably my closest matches with the shades available.

Current Makeup Menu

I've been super lazy with my makeup lately. I've also decided to stop doing regimented monthly favourites posts and instead do ad hoc posts of the products I've been reaching for whenever an update might be of interest. Most mornings during the past couple of weeks, I've adhered to a fairly pared down routine (from my previous standards at least). A lot of it is motivated by the desire to stay in bed for as long as possible, which naturally cuts into the time I have to get ready.

After washing and moisturising my face (I've been loving a sample of the hydrating but not oily Innisfree Perfect 9 Repair Lotion), I start with the eyes. While usually one of the most enjoyable aspects of makeup for me, I've ditched all my powder eyeshadows or need for brushes in favour of one product only: KIKO Long Lasting Stick Eyeshadow. I alternate between two shades, Rosy Brown (for a more cool-toned, mauvey taupe option) and Golden Brown (more neutral bronze). Touted as a dupe for By Terry Ombre Blackstar Cream Eyeshadow, these are quite simply the best shadow stick I've come across. The quality is superb for the price. They're strongly pigmented, very metallic but not gritty or patchy, long lasting, easy to apply and blend, and most importantly, flattering on the eyes. So quick, fuss-free and reliable. I just whack some onto the lid and blend out the edges with my finger. I also run the stick along the lower lash line. It takes about 30 seconds per eye and the eyeshadow is done.

l-r: KIKO Long Lasting Stick Eyeshadow in Rosy Brown (05), Golden Brown (06)

Next is eyeliner. I've been trying out the affordable Essence Eyeliner Pen Waterproof which I used my $5 birthday voucher from Priceline towards. It's only so-so. The colour is pleasantly black, but it's the shape of the tip that doesn't work for me. It doesn't give me enough control when extending the line and drawing the flick. It's more of a hard felt tip rather than a flexible but firm thin brush like my superior Japan-made Creer Beaute La Rose de Versailles liquid eyeliner, which I'd use all the time except that it's running out. The Essence also dries in a way that if you go over the dried eyeliner, it'll flake off.

After eyeliner, I follow with whatever mascara I have available. The two I've been reaching for are in their final stages and nothing to write home about. I'm more or less waiting for them to be finished entirely before cracking open one of the many brand new mascaras I have waiting in the wings.

Next comes skin. Some days if I'm interested in an injection of extra glow, I'll apply a small amount of MAC Strobe Cream all over like I would a luminising primer. I'm having something of a lovefest with Strobe Cream at the moment and think it's incredibly underrated despite its cult product status. The colour is beautiful, the texture is great, it's so multifunctional and compared with other liquid highlighting products like Chanel Le Blanc de Chanel Sheer Illuminating Base or Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector Liquid, it's not that expensive. I find applying Strobe Cream to my bare face before foundation results in a more natural, subtle effect than if I mixed it into my foundation. I am slightly paranoid that smoothing it over my nose and forehead has a tendency to break me out, but it seems fine over the cheeks.

Recently, I've been sticking to one pump of Dior Diorskin Nude BB Creme in Fair (02) mixed with a drop of Tarte Maracuja Oil applied with my Zoeva Silk Finish brush for my base. I don't know if the texture of my Dior is a bit off, but I don't really like it. It feels slightly moussey and thicker in consistency than most liquid foundations I'm used to. Coverage is definitely on the light side, which wouldn't be too much of a problem if my skin was in good shape, but lately I've had some dryness, redness and break outs which call for concealer after the foundation is applied. Otherwise, you can see most of the underlying blemished and uneven skin peeking through. Even with the drop of oil mixed in and thoroughly buffed in with my brush, the BB Creme doesn't meld or sink completely into my skin. I do notice, especially if I examine my skin closely in the mirror, parts that still sit on top of the skin, especially around the nose. The finish isn't as brightening or dewy as I'd like, though it's not exactly matte. It's just a bit flat, albeit "natural" (though the colour is a little too pink-toned for me). Additionally, as the day goes on, the foundation starts to break up on my skin, especially visible on the cheeks. It's not as effectively skin-perfecting, illuminating or easy to work with than the much cheaper Garnier BB Cream Miracle Skin Perfector Combination to Oily Skin. However, I'm persevering with the Dior because it was pricey and if I don't force myself to use it, it'll never be touched.

Last we have another favourite aspect of makeup for me apart from the eyes — blush. The two I've been loving lately have been Benefit Rockateur and Max Factor Creme Puff Blush in Nude Mauve. The Benefit is a brightening, shimmery pinky peach that's more girly, summery and warming, whereas the plummy brown, satin-finish Nude Mauve is more cool-toned, sculpting and polished. Nude Mauve is a versatile hybrid bronzer and blush that I can just whack on without being concerned about placement or overdoing it, since the colour payoff is on the subdued side. It has a softer baked texture and blends without any issues. I'm still loving my Wayne Goss Brush #14 for blush, though I've also been reaching for my angled Zoeva Luxe Sheer Cheek Brush.

l-r: Benefit Rockateur, Max Factor Nude Mauve

Depending on time constraints and whether I feel like it, I'll highlight and/or powder after blush. I did go through a phase of preferring certain colour-shifting eyeshadows (Kat Von D Metal Crush Eyeshadow in Thunderstruck, Makeup Geek Duochrome Eyeshadow in I'm Peachless) to dedicated powder highlighters for my cheek highlight, but I've found the texture of them usually isn't as forgiving on the skin. They're not as easily blended and can emphasise pores and sit on the skin in an obvious manner. I've been mostly using Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector Pressed in Champagne Pop (can't beat the colour and the BAM! HIGHLIGHT effect) or Dior Diorskin Poudre Shimmer in Amber Diamond (probably the most refined highlighter I have, along with Charlotte Tilbury Filmstar Bronze & Glow), applied with a Burberry No.09 Socket Line Brush. Powder has been Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Powder in N°20 which I actually really like, except I suspect that might have more to do with the fact it's Chanel than anything else.

As a final step, I'll put on some lip balm. I do this for an odd purpose — it's not to hydrate my lips, but rather, to get rid of any foundation on my lips. I'll remove the lip balm with a tissue which removes any foundation. I've been rediscovering the cult product Lucas' Papaw Ointment. My tube is God knows how old, but it still works perfectly. The shine it gives the lips is super pretty and it's an excellent multipurpose ointment that soothes, protects and moisturises.

Best of 2015

Is it just me, or are yearly favourites posts/videos not that exciting anymore? I'm not sensing as much interest in them as say, 2-3 years ago. Most bloggers do monthly favourites, so the yearly one is a "best of the monthly favourites" more than anything. Still, I wouldn't feel right not following tradition, so here are the products that stood out to me the most in 2015.

Morphe Brushes Jaclyn Hill Favorites Palette
Even though shipping cost more than the palette itself and I jumped through hoops to order it (including abruptly waking up at some obscene hour and entering my credit card details bleary-eyed), this 28-pan eyeshadow palette is a classic example of a product only a makeup junkie would buy, and could fully appreciate. Given it's limited edition, I feel happy and lucky even (corny as it sounds) to have it in my possession. There isn't a single dud in terms of pigmentation and texture. The matte shades are the best I've tried for the price point. Full review and swatches here.

Australis Velourlips Matte Lip Cream in Pa-ree
Though I have too many lip products to count, rarely do I encounter one that genuinely is a game changer. Pa-ree is just that. The matte lip cream formula is virtually faultless — far and away the most comfortable and forgiving I've tried, while remaining ultra matte and opaque. But the colour is what makes this product special. It's unlike any nude I've ever come across. A muted peachy caramel with slight greige tones. Obsessed.

YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat
My favourite foundation discovery of the year, beating other high end contenders like Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation, Dior Diorskin Nude BB Creme and Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation. Simply put, Le Teint Touche Éclat beautifies your complexion while still retaining the appearance of natural skin. Good coverage and a soft, radiant, airbrushed finish. Especially great for dry skin.

Essie Cocktail Bling
I know buying Cocktail Bling ... can only mean one thing. That it'll be on my toes and fingers for pretty much most of the year, no exaggeration. I like it more than comparable, sophisticated neutrals like Nails Inc. Porchester Square or OPI Tickle My France-y. It's that kind of effortlessly cool colour you wear while dreaming of a Scandi kitchen and the perfect roll neck sweater.

Rimmel ScandalEyes Shadow Stick in Bad Girl Bronze
An ancient product, but one that I felt deserved a mention here. Absolutely on par with any high end offering, this has been a failproof, go-to option at home, on the run, and travelling abroad. Creamy but not hard to work with and intensely pigmented, the colour is gorgeous (look at the multi-coloured shimmer in the light and tell me otherwise), it lasts forever and the stick format ensures it can be used as eyeliner or cream shadow. Back up already purchased.

Maybelline HyperSharp Wing Liquid Liner
I didn't think I'd find anything to rival the Dolly Wink Liquid Eyeliner in last year's favourites, but I was pleasantly surprised at how good this Maybelline one is. I've been using it nonstop since I bought mine in August. It's everything you want in a liquid liner: easy to use, precise, a non-floppy or fraying tip, nicely black and not watery or grey, long wearing, and won't run out in a week (mine is admittedly on its last legs, but it has been over 4 months).

Rosebud Perfume Co. Rosebud Salve
I really didn't expect to like this as much as I did. Initially, I thought it was no better than slightly fancier Vaseline. But consistent use throughout the year has made me see the light. Soothing, moisturising and pleasant to use, it also gives the lips a cushiony, glossy rosiness that's awfully pretty.

Radical Hydrating Cleanser
Yes, $52 for a cleanser is steep, but this has been my standout skin care product of 2015. My tube hasn't run out yet, and I've been using it almost daily for 6 months, with a few short-lived breaks as I briefly turned my attention to other options. For a morning cleanser, I haven't come across anything better. Wonderful smelling, hydrating, non-foaming, gentle, nourishing-feeling, non-irritating to the eyes and easily washed off. Never leaves my skin feeling tight, dried out or stripped after I rinse it off.

Maybelline Lash Sensational Mascara
The best mascara I've used all year. Excellent wand that gets to each lash. Extends, thickens and curls while minimising clumping. Formula is long lasting, doesn't transfer or flake. Often compared with Benefit Roller Lash, I have a sample of Roller Lash and find Lash Sensational superior.

Charlotte Tilbury Powder & Sculpt Brush
Honestly, I don't even know why I continue to buy or look at buying brushes to contour, highlight, powder or apply blush when this exists. Especially contour. I doubt I could find anything better than the Powder & Sculpt Brush for that purpose. Apart from the fact it's absolutely beautiful to look at, it's extremely functional. The shape, the hairs (not too floppy that it's hard to pick up product, but not prickly or lacking in softness by any means), the handle. Everything works for the results you want.

Wayne Goss Brush 14
Now this is a soft brush. Only my Suqqu Cheek Brush is softer in my entire brush collection, but that was $160 and this was $50. Brush 14 is my new staple in pigmented or soft-textured powder blushes. It applies and blends product like a dream. For the quality and craftsmanship, I think it's actually priced competitively.

Charlotte Tilbury Filmstar Bronze & Glow
Saved for the best for last, you could say. I called it earlier in the year when I predicted this would appear here. While undeniably pricey, I can confidently say if you have this, you basically don't need any other contouring or highlighting products. Because the individual 'Sculpt' and 'Highlight' pans are the pinnacle of both fields. You also get a whopping 16g of product which will last forever. And of course, the packaging is DIVINE.

No Miracle Worker

I'm a huge fan of Garnier BB Cream Miracle Skin Perfector Combination to Oily Skin, so when Garnier Miracle Skin Cream launched, I was immediately curious. It retails for $19.99 for a 50ml tube in Australia, which isn't hideously steep but not dirt cheap either. Thankfully, a full tube was included in the recent Priceline skin care gift bag. (It was a real struggle waiting for stock to be replenished to be able to redeem the gift bag voucher for it, but that's another story.) I couldn't wait to slap some of the stuff on my skin and see how it performed. The first day, I tried it as a brightening/skin tone-evening primer underneath my normal makeup, but immediately started noticing issues with how it blended into the skin. Later that day, I was Googling reviews and came across MakeupAlley, where it has a whopping 2.5/5 score. Hmmm...

Most of the reviews on MakeupAlley were negative, some quite scathing. I can understand why, since I'll cut to the chase. There are major problems with Garnier Miracle Skin Cream. Major. I know with any skin care/makeup product, it ultimately comes down to individual experience, but at least from reading others' thoughts, I know I'm not alone.

Marketed as an "anti-ageing skin transformer" that "smooths, evens and illuminates skin", "reduces wrinkles, dark spots and pores" with "micro-pigments [that] automatically adjust to your skin tone" and "an anti-ageing complex with 7 actives [LHA, Pro-Retinol, Vitamin C, Vitamins B3 and B5, Peptides, Antioxidant Ginger] plus SPF15 protection", this is basically a tinted moisturiser where the tint forms upon contact with the skin. It comes out white with some fine granules in it, then blends out to this smooth, orangey tint. I guess you could call it the drugstore/affordable equivalent to Origins VitaZing SPF15 Energy-Boosting Moisturiser.

Firstly, the scent is absolutely overpowering. It's a kind of artificial, sweet, "fresh" but cloying fragrance that is entirely off-putting. But I can overlook an unwanted scent if the product performs brilliantly. If you've ever tried a tester tube in a shop and rubbed some of the cream on your hand, you might be fooled like I was into thinking this blends out well. On the face, it's a different story.

Here's a before and after shot of my bare, freshly washed and moisturised skin, then when I attempted to apply Garnier Miracle Skin Cream. I used Trilogy Balancing Face Lotion beforehand, which is a slightly sticky, quite mattifying moisturiser. The Garnier didn't work well with it to say the least. It started out okay when I applied it mainly to my cheeks and forehead, but things took a steep dive when I applied it on the nose and chin. It was picking up dryness I never knew I had. It was accumulating in areas and not blending out. It was bunching up together in patches. Undeterred, I tried squeezing a bit of the Garnier into my palms, rubbing them together, then smoothing my hands over my face. That only exacerbated the problem. I tried using a very emollient moisturiser like La Roche-Posay Toleriane Riche over the top to fix it and dissolve the patches and unevenness, but it was a lost cause. It was impossible to remedy.

A necessary close-up. Hot mess.

I'd never had a base product be that bad that the only solution was to wipe it all off and start all over again. It wasn't just that it didn't blend out properly and accumulated in patches, it was also that it made my face feel tacky and gross. I started out with fresh, bare skin that was clean, balanced and properly moisturised, and then I undid all that effort and transformed it for the worse, not better.

I ain't a quitter though, so I decided to give it another chance. After rubbing my face with a Simple Cleansing Facial Wipe and then liberally spritzing with Avene Thermal Spring Water, I thought a different moisturiser might be the solution. Clearly, the Trilogy was not cutting it, so I opted for something far more hydrating, watery and plumping. With my face still partially wet from the Avene, I used some Laneige Perfect Renew Emulsion_EX. With some trepidation, I began applying the Miracle Cream again.

This time, the results were much better. Not perfect, but a vast improvement.

I still had some issues with blending out the cream seamlessly, especially around the nose and mouth, but nothing I couldn't live with. Having said that, for the work required in terms of skin prep, ensuring the right moisturiser is used underneath, diligent application and blending with the fingers, and mindfulness not to over-blend lest disaster strike, it's all a bit too much effort for something that delivers the same results as any good, luminising, tinted moisturiser. My skin right now isn't even in bad shape in terms of texture and blemishes. I can't imagine how inappropriate and ineffectual this product would be on problematic skin.

When it works, the coverage is akin to something like Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturiser and the finish Garnier BB Cream Miracle Skin Perfector Combination to Oily Skin. It does give me a bit of colour and glow and evens out the complexion, though I wouldn't say it's entirely undetectable because of application and blending issues which makes the product visibly sit on top of the skin. The tint isn't too dark for me, though it is a bit on the orange side.

Overall, too much effort for not enough reward. Not that it matters that much to me, but I can't even comment on the promised anti-ageing/"skin-transforming" benefits since it's unlikely I'll use this consistently enough to notice a change, if any happens. Ain't no one got time for something this temperamental. Maybe if I had no comparable products, I'd continue to use this on good skin days after prepping my face with lots of moisture and finding the best moisturiser to pair it with through trial and error, but when a product is this fundamentally unreliable, it has no value to me other than for occasional experimentation. A new, everyday workhorse base this isn't.

Not As Described

Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation has been on my wishlist for a while, so when COSME-DE.COM was having a sale, I jumped at the opportunity to buy it. The foundation retails for a whopping $92 here in Australia, but I paid just under $60. As always, the trickiest part was determining which shade to buy. I matched myself to Karima McKimmie as it seems we have a similar skin tone (NC 20-25), so I chose 4.5.

Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation in 4.5

l-r: NARS Sheer Glow in Fiji, YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat in B40, Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk in 4.5, Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Aqua Foundation in 013

The attempted colour match was a fail. It's a tad too dark and very obviously the wrong undertone, in that it's tan/pink rather than predominately yellow or neutral. The discrepancy is especially visible when inspecting the difference between my face and neck in natural sunlight. I seem to have this problem with every face product I buy these days (also see Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Aqua Foundation in 013, Clarins Instant Concealer in 02 and Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powder in Dim Light), so I'm developing something of a pattern here. So far, only Bourjois Healthy Mix Serum in 52 and NARS Sheer Glow in Fiji are yellow enough for me. Everything else is off to varying degrees.

Here we have the comparison shot (both entirely unedited images, only cropped) of my bare face and the same area with a small amount of Luminous Silk applied with the fingers. I probably should've moisturised my face before applying the foundation, but you can't really tell from the picture that it's picking up and emphasising dry patches as opposed to blurring them out.

To my surprise, coverage is on sheer side. It's actually one of the lightest coverage foundations I own. This stuff is less coverage than Garnier BB Cream Miracle Skin Perfector Combination to Oily Skin or Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturiser. One pump over the face only provides a light layer of tint and won't go all that far in perfecting and evening out the skin. I find I need at least 1.5 pumps for bare minimum coverage, plus concealer if my skin's acting up or I want to camouflage scarring from breakouts. The downside to requiring more than a pump of foundation is that the colour mismatch only becomes more pronounced.

Apart from the scant coverage, another unexpected aspect of the foundation is it doesn't live up to its "Luminous Silk" name. Basically, this stuff ain't dewy. Quite the opposite. Call me crazy, but the finish is fairly flat and matte to my eyes. Sure, there's luminosity in the sense that the complexion is evened out and subtly highlighted from within, but there's no translucent, light-reflecting plumpness. There's no magic. It's not YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat, a foundation that instantly provides a smoothing, soft focus, luminous effect, perking up tired, dull skin. The texture and the way it applies reminds me a bit of CoverGirl Outlast Stay Fabulous 3 in 1 Foundation. It's not that forgiving in that a moisturised, smooth canvas is required for best results, otherwise it will pick up dry patches and highlight them. Or it could just be that it's targeted more towards oily/combination skin rather than dry. Of my two most recent foundation acquisitions, I infinitely prefer YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat to Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk.

On the plus side, and perhaps because it's drier/more matte on me than moisturising/dewy, I do find it to be longer lasting on the skin and not as oily as other foundations I favour (e.g. NARS Sheer Glow, YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat). It definitely holds up better over time, especially when I mix it with a higher coverage foundation like Sheer Glow. That's the way I've been preferring to wear Luminous Silk — not on its own, but mixed with another foundation to counteract some of its less desirable qualities. For example, mixing with Sheer Glow helps to make it more yellow-toned with higher coverage. Mixing it with YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat also amps up the coverage while making it more dewy and soft-focus in effect.

Luminous Silk, at least on my skin, benefits tremendously with the addition of a glowy finishing spray like my DIY Caudalie Divine Oil-infused water. A light misting takes away the matte finish, eliminates dry areas and generally applies a smoothing wand over the complexion, making it more alive and radiant.