First Experience: Dermalogica

Dermalogica is a brand I've always been keen to explore, so when Facial Co. contacted me about reviewing some of their products, I jumped at the opportunity. I've always considered Dermalogica to enjoy the reputation of being a solid, dependable, almost clinical company that focuses on what goes into their products and how they perform, without the need for fancy packaging or marketing hype. Despite this positive impression, my total exposure to Dermalogica has been limited — mainly a few samples from the Age Smart range that were just so-so, and the memory of using my friend's minty, invigorating face wash after a high school sleepover. Now that I've added the Special Cleansing Gel, Daily Microfoliant and Skin Smoothing Cream to my skin care arsenal, I can form some more concrete opinions.

Special Cleansing Gel

A good cleanser is a rare specimen. I've gone through many, many cleansers and only one or two really stick out as anything I'd repurchase. The rest are largely interchangeable. Generally, I prefer non-foaming cleaners to foaming, but it's hard to steer clear of foaming cleansers given how common they are, and I'm no less picky when it comes to cream, gel or balm cleansers (forget cleansing milks ... bleurgh).

The Special Cleansing Gel is strictly a bare face/morning cleanser only, which makes it less versatile than a cleanser that's also effective at removing makeup (e.g. philosophy Purity Made Simple Facial Cleanser). Not that it purports to remove makeup — I just tried out of curiosity. It could possibly be used as a first cleanse before going in with an oil-based cleanser, but what's the point/who has the time.

I was wary of the inclusion of sodium laureth sulfate (the second ingredient) due to the bad rap it can get, but it's not a factor that deters me entirely. I get that some people might be a bit iffy using something mainly in their shampoo or hand wash on their face, especially on a daily basis.

The gel is clear and when mixed with water, is gently foaming rather than a total bubble bath, which I prefer. It has an inoffensive, subtle botanical scent. When washed off and the face patted dry with a towel, it leaves the skin feeling squeaky clean but not through harsh means. My skin feels slightly dry if I don't moisturise within a few minutes of cleansing, but it's nothing dramatic and pretty much the same story with any cleanser (the feeling post-cleanse is roughly on par with Oskia Renaissance Cleansing Gel, Clarins Gentle Foaming Cleanser and Fresh Soy Face Cleanser).

I still regard Radical Hydrating Cleanser as the best cleanser I've encountered (creamy texture, smells amazing, leaves skin feeling comfortable and balanced), however we are talking a large price difference — $0.53/ml for the Radical compared with $0.22/ml for the Dermalogica based on the 250ml bottle. However, I'd still be inclined to repurchase the Radical over the Dermalogica as I don't think it has any peer, whereas there are cheaper alternatives to the Special Cleansing Gel that will more or less do the same job (e.g. Derma E Hydrating Cleanser, which I've used every morning for a few months now).

Ingredients: Water/Aqua/Eau, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, Hexylene Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Citric Acid, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben.

Daily Microfoliant

The Daily Microfoliant, a water-activated, rice-based exfoliating powder, is probably Dermalogica's signature product. As far as I'm aware, it's quite unique — I don't really know of any similar products. The instructions state to pour half a teaspoon onto your hand, which I tried my best to eyeball. It honestly felt like I was tipping out salt and pepper onto my hand. The shape of the bottle and dispenser design are truly reminiscent of a seasoning shaker. There's no particular scent, at least not strong enough to leave any impression.

Applied to the face after cleansing, it's fairly gentle for a physical scrub (not coarse and abrasive like Lush Angels on Bare Skin), due to how small the exfoliating particles are. Unexpectedly, the powder foams up when wet palms are rubbed together. You can feel it working its magic, sloughing away dead cells and giving the skin a clean slate upon which to apply serums and moisturisers. It leaves the face feeling immaculately clean and unusually smooth.

You do need to follow with a moisturiser, otherwise the skin can feel a little taut and dry, and even start flaking in places like around the nose. With daily use, I can imagine how effective and transformative this would be for the skin, leading to improvements in texture, visible blackheads, uneven/dull skin tone and oiliness. However, the act of unscrewing the top cap and pouring out the powder into your hands is a bit fiddly, and remembering to exfoliate after cleansing is an extra step in my daily routine I wouldn't otherwise take, so I can also imagine not using it as regularly as I could. I'd be more inclined to use it in the shower to save time, but one has to be super careful to not get any water into the powder, otherwise it's good as gone.

The amount of product in a 75g bottle would last forever, so despite a hefty initial spend of $80, it would pay off in terms of cost per use, especially if you only reach for it a couple of times a week.

Ingredients: Microcrystalline Cellulose, Magnesium Oxide, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Colloidal Oatmeal, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch, Allantoin, Papain, Salicylic Acid, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, PCA, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Populus Tremuloides Bark Extract, Cyclodextrin, Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Citric Acid.

Skin Smoothing Cream

After cleansing and exfoliating, we have moisturiser in the form of the Skin Smoothing Cream. Described as a "medium-weight" moisturiser (I guess the sweet spot between a light moisturiser that may not be rich enough and a thicker moisturiser that might be too heavy), it contains lecithin, aloe gel, mallow, cucumber and arnica extracts. There's no SPF and it isn't specifically a day or night cream, so can be used whenever.

It has a moderately strong medicinal smell that I would say is uncommon in a skin care product, given how many are perfumed to make them more palatable and enjoyable to use. It doesn't bother me and may even be beneficial for the skin due to the exclusion of artificial fragrance.

The Skin Smoothing Cream is a unique formulation that has the feel of a balm but is a non-greasy, spreadable, cream consistency. It's not as runny or thin as a lotion, but it's also not oily like certain salves or thicker moisturisers (e.g. Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturising Lotion+, Antipodes Avocado Pear Nourishing Night Cream, Benefit Total Moisture Facial Cream). Probably the most similar moisturiser I've tried to it is Jurlique Arnica Cream.

It feels like I'm applying a moderately thick coat of locked-in moisture that is quickly and thoroughly absorbed into the skin, leaving it smoothed and softened. From the few times I've used it, it's very effective in restoring moisture to the skin and addressing dry patches/flakiness. It has a mattifying effect and dries down completely — almost like a smoothing primer, which works well as a base for makeup and is ideal for the dry/combination skin type the product is targeting.

Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Stearic Acid, PEG-8, Lactamide MEA, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Silk Amino Acids, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Extract, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Allantoin, Panthenol, Glycolipids, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Lecithin, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Hedera Helix (Ivy) Leaf/Stem Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Parietaria Officinalis Extract, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Polyquaternium-10, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Linalool.

Products were provided to me for review.

Colour Philosophy

While I've largely been sticking to the same products for my daily face these past few months, the not-yet-retired makeup enthusiast in me still isn't immune to the temptation of a cheap, novelty item. Enter Essence Glitter in the Air Velvet Lipstick in Life Is Too Short For Boring Lipstick (01), something that inexplicably called out to me on a recentish trip to Priceline. As its defiant (or defensive?) name might suggest, the colour's pretty out there.

Life Is Too Short For Boring Lipstick is a cool-toned, dark greyish purple. Under certain light, it looks more like a browny plum. In any event, it's the kind of colour that one might say evokes the effects of hypothermia or screams "goth". But I don't care. It's a shade that I don't have and one that I normally wouldn't go for, given cool-toned colours rarely look good on me. But I tried the tester on at the shop (yes, I'm one of those disgusting people) and I didn't hate it. In fact, I was sold.

l-r: Essence Life Is Too Short For Boring Lipstick, Revlon Black Cherry, Colourpop Mess Around, Colourpop Toolips

I compared it with the most similar colours in my lipstick collection, and as expected none were close enough to be considered a dupe. Revlon Super Lustrous Lipstick in Black Cherry is distinctly more of a vampy, deep merlot, though the texture is comparable to the Essence (i.e. undeniably patchy but not impossible to work with). Black Cherry is also more of a satin finish than the more matte Life Is Too Short For Boring Lipstick. Both Colourpop shades are more brown-toned than purple, though Toolips is about the same darkness. However being liquid lipsticks, they arguably don't have the same versatility and ease of use as a conventional lipstick, though are smoother and more even in application.

Here, I've applied it fairly opaquely à la ~dramatic statement lip~, though I prefer wearing it as a light stain for a touch of something unusual and moody. I usually just dab some product with my finger onto my lips (often primed with some kind of balm underneath) and then press my lips together to blend. Even in minuscule amounts, it never fails to elicit comments ("Are you wearing lipstick?"). The texture is on the waxy, hard side and isn't as emollient or smooth as a traditional lipstick, possibly because darker matte colours have inherent formulation limitations. But it's an issue that can be overcome so long as a little more time and care is taken with the application.

Overall, I'm liking Essence for affordable, "trend" products that one can experiment and have some fun with. At such a low price point, I appreciate the small details (like how the lipstick is cut into an interesting diamond-faceted shape which I failed to photograph in its pristine state — but this blogger did), and I feel the baseline quality is good, despite room for improvement. Life may be too short for boring lipstick, but ultimately makeup is about personal preference and what gives you confidence and enjoyment.

Quick, Full Face Makeup

I don't know about you, but I'm fairly hopeless when it comes to fast makeup. Fast for me is 10-15 minutes (and let's face it, it's always more 15 minutes). Lately, I've been trying to simplify my routine so I can get away with less effort as I'm getting ready, all the while maintaining a full face approach, using few brushes as possible and placing a premium on products that will last the distance. Here's what I've been reaching for:

I start with a cleansed face and one pump of my current daytime moisturiser, Botani Boost Balancing Moisturiser. I purchased this moisturiser during Priceline's last 40% off skincare sale and have been liking it so far. Consistency-wise and in terms of application and how it dries on the skin, it reminds me of a more fluid, less tacky Trilogy Balancing Face Lotion. It's not as rich, instantly hydrating and soothing as La Roche-Posay Toleriane Riche, my favoured moisturiser for this time of year as the weather starts to cool down. However, the Botani has its advantages in that it is almost primer-like once absorbed into the skin, with a slight stickiness and no oiliness whatsoever which helps to prolong whatever foundation is placed on top of it.

Speaking of foundation, I've been squeezing a dollop of Bobbi Brown BB Cream in Fair into my hand, pressing my palms together and slapping the product onto my face. It's the quickest way to apply my base and does away with brushes entirely. When I first tried the Bobbi Brown BB cream in summer, I was disappointed with it as it sat on top of the skin and transferred/moved around crazily. But now that it's approaching winter and my skin is getting drier, plus with the primer-like Botani applied before, the BB cream just blends into and sticks to my face marvelously. In fact, I have to work relatively quickly to get it all on and blended evenly with my fingers before it starts to set. I'm most pleased with the product not balling up or getting blended away to nothingness even with fairly vigorous circular and smoothing hand actions, as has been my experience with similar products like Garnier Miracle Skin Cream. It gives a truly natural, soft focus and brightening finish, but is a light veil rather than anything heavier or more effective at hiding blemishes and perfecting skin tone. Occasionally, if I need a boost in coverage, I'll go over areas of redness or in need of highlighting (mainly T-zone and under the eyes) with my trusty NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer in Custard, still the best concealer I've tried.

For eyes, I've been also doing away with brushes and using just one product for eyeshadow, Maybelline Color Tattoo in Creamy Beige, supposedly a dupe for MAC Paint Pot in Groundwork which I've been meaning to buy for years. The midtone mushroom/taupe/putty shade provides just the right amount of definition, particularly for glasses wearers, without appearing too heavy or unnatural. The colour leans neutral enough that it doesn't drain the complexion like a lot of grey-leaning shades can. Next comes the hardest part which is doing my eyeliner with Dolly Wink Liquid Eyeliner, the results of which vary on a daily basis (not from the product itself which is brilliant, just from my unreliable hand). I'm back on an old fave, the tragically discontinued KIKO Eye Pencil in Glamorous, to define my lower lash line. The bright metallic copper complements deep brown eyes and contrasts well with the matte greige eyeshadow. I've been loyal to Essence I Love Extreme Crazy Volume Mascara, featured in my last makeup menu. I've already purchased a backup and can't picture myself using anything else. It's so affordable, very black, long lasting, lengthens, curls, adds volume, doesn't flake, serves margaritas and gives back massages.

l-r: Maybelline Creamy Beige, Clinique Nude Pop, KIKO Glamorous, Dolly Wink eyeliner

Finally, for cheeks, I've been rotating between NARS Madly, Benefit Rockateur, and Clinique Cheek Pop in Nude Pop, with the latter receiving the most love. Since the rest of the face is fairly minimal and dull, the warm peachy-beige Nude Pop perks the complexion right up and injects enough colour without being too red or orange. This is the only product I apply with a brush, being the angled, synthetic Morphe E4. It's natural, flattering, lasts longer than most blushes, and the spongy, bouncy Cheek Pop formula melds invisibly into the skin rather than sitting on top of it.

Current Makeup Menu #2

I was contemplating doing a "Best of 2016" post, but ultimately decided against it as I had no clue what would be on the list. I didn't blog for 3 months and averaged about 2 posts a month, so my engagement with makeup and product discoveries were all a bit plodding and piecemeal. Usually I look back on what I blogged about to get a sense of the stuff I enjoyed in the past year, but nothing stood out to me when I reviewed what I'd written about. Rather than force the issue, I thought I'd do a current makeup loves post instead. On that topic, I do have something to say.

I've switched back to Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua after persevering quite joylessly with Dior BB Creme. I forgot what an absolutely incredible foundation this is. It's in my top 3 all-time favourites alongside NARS Sheer Glow and YSL Le Teint Touche Eclat. Definitely a better summer foundation than for the colder months (the YSL is better for winter as it's more hydrating/forgiving), but I haven't experienced any issues with it highlighting dry patches as I have occasionally in the past. Could just be my skin's in decent condition at the moment. Not too dry, not too oily, more or less unblemished (knock on wood). With an unproblematic canvas, Vitalumiere Aqua works super well. It's immediately flattering but believable. Makes the skin look softly luminous, lifted, more plump and youthful. It blends in effortlessly, never sitting on top of the skin, and doesn't ever look too heavy or obvious. Just a high quality, high performing foundation that I must remember to repurchase when I run out.

I've also been turning to Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Powder to set my face with my Wayne Goss Brush 00. Previously I didn't think it did much, but I probably was just using it all wrong. I find the key is not using too much product, finding the right brush, and applying only a light, thin layer. It takes down unwanted shine a notch or two without totally mattifying the skin, and minimises the need to blot my face down the track (I still do it, but less product comes off). I like that it's undetectable on the skin and doesn't weigh it down with the appearance of a powder caked on top.

Pixi Glow Mist is a product I've been meaning to try for ages, especially after hearing it being compared with Tatcha Dewy Skin Face Mist, the price of which I could never justify, never mind it's not even sold in Australia. (Seriously, $48 USD or $70 for 40ml of liquid you spritz on your face for fun. Can't do it.) To me, the main things I look out for in a mist are a) if it feels good on the skin, i.e. isn't noticeably drying, irritating or otherwise uncomfortable b) if it does the job, i.e. makes my makeup look fresher and my complexion dewier if I've overdone it with the powders or my foundation's too matte/flat c) if there are any ingredients I should be wary of, like alcohol or menthol. Glow Mist ticks all the boxes, plus it was a far more affordable price point for double the amount you get in the Tatcha at 80ml (I bought it in a pack with Glow Tonic on sale from ASOS for about $45).

I've heard good things about Essence I Love Extreme Crazy Volume Mascara (especially from ozproductjunkie), so I purchased a tube during one of Priceline's 40% off cosmetics sales. I finally opened mine up a few weeks ago, and I really like it. It reminds me so much of Benefit They're Real, but is a fraction of the price. The wand, formula, application and effect are very similar. My only minor gripe is that it could do a better job at getting to the outer lashes, but I can overlook that shortcoming since it does everything else so well for being so affordable. I honestly don't know why I'd buy any other mascara from now on when this is $5.75 and so effective. As its name suggests, it builds up lots of thickness and volume in the lashes, without looking too spidery and clumpy. Separation is good, curl is good, lasting power is great and it does a good job on the bottom lashes as well without smudging too much throughout the day.

In a recent Colourpop free shipping promo, I ordered Mr. Bing Liner (a collaboration with YouTuber KathleenLights). The purchase was mainly spurred by curiosity more than anything, since Kathleen raved so much about the formula and I haven't been overly impressed with all that many pencil eyeliners I've tried. Since it arrived, I've been using this to define my lower lash line daily. I like the warm chocolately brown colour, wear time is excellent and it doesn't budge. The fine tip allows for precise application and the twist up mechanism is convenient (no pesky, wasteful sharpening ever!). The formula isn't completely soft and gel-like, but it's not totally dry and hard either. It's a little waxy, but still has a bit of give upon contact with skin.

l-r: NYX Abu Dhabi, Colourpop Mr. Bing, NARS The Multiple in Orgasm

My friend gave me her unwanted mini of NARS The Multiple in Orgasm and I've been reaching for this as part of my "quick" makeup with minimal (for me) products. Basically using it as a substitute for Stila Convertible Colour in Gerbera in my go-to low-key makeup post (ditching the cream pot eyeshadows for my beloved KIKO Long Lasting Stick Eyeshadow and swapping pencil eyeliner for liquid felt tip eyeliner). This product is a faithful interpretation of Orgasm powder blush but in cream blush form. The golden sheen comes out a touch more than in the pressed version, but there's still that distinctive warm, translucent, corally baby pink. I literally draw on a few strokes onto my cheek and then use my fingers to blend out the edges. The lasting power isn't as good as the powder blush and you have to be a little careful so it's not patchy upon application as the formula is on the thin side but quite emollient (not greasy however). I love the small size and the fact it doesn't require a brush to use, making it super portable and ideal for travel.

Lastly, we have NYX Soft Matte Lip Cream in Abu Dhabi. To me, this is possibly the most perfect nude I've encountered. If you're light (NC 20-25) and Asian/yellow-toned, I highly recommend you seek out Abu Dhabi and try it. It's like MAC Patisserie on steroids (or the bolder, fully matte version). The only minor downside is it does settle a little bit in the lip lines, but I usually just rub the product in with my finger or blot with a tissue or the back of my hand. The lasting power isn't amazing, but perhaps to be expected for a light MLLB colour. I couldn't find this shade individually to purchase in any Priceline or Target, so I had to buy it in a set called "The Nudes" with Simply Nude Lip Cream in Sable and Intense Butter Gloss in Chocolate Crepe. Worth it.