Budget to Luxe: Contouring

I recently saw a video where someone contoured their nose and cheekbones with Milani Shadow Eyez Eyeshadow Pencil in Brown Deluxe, using the remnant product left on their finger after first blending the cream shadow onto their eyelids. After seeing that, it occurred to me that so long as you find what works for you — anything can be used to contour. (Of course, having an enviable underlying bone structure doesn't hurt.) Still, for the rest of us that might not be so resourceful or genetically blessed, a dedicated contouring product (cream or powder) usually does the trick. I've rummaged through my collection and dug out four products I've bought, from cheap and cheerful to hideously expensive, in my quest to cheat some dimension and shape to my plump, flat face.

NYX Blush in Taupe
One of the very first contouring powders I'd heard about back in the day. Taupe was famed and coveted due to its reputation as a "drugstore" product that was distinctly cool-toned and grey, in contrast to the usual warmer, orangey bronzers out there. I bought it for $10 from a trade-only event over 3 years ago when NYX wasn't yet stocked at Target in Australia. Since then, I've only reached for it maybe 5 times? It's just too grey and too cool-toned for me. It might be a winner on paler skin tones (I imagine being in possession of actual cheekbones also goes a long way in liking/using the product), but it's never appeared effective or natural on me. It has a unique pinkish undertone when swatched, but it veers dangerously close to muddy and ashy on my skin. It looks more like I'm applying a dark grey eyeshadow to my face than anything else. Probably desirable if you're looking for a noticeable effect in photos, but otherwise a little jarring and odd in "real life".

Maybelline Master Sculpt Contour Palette in Medium/Dark
My favourite of the bunch, and the cheapest one to boot (I bought it on sale for $9.97). Like I said in my original review, it reminds me of a slightly more ashy Benefit Hoola. I wasn't expecting anything from a more affordable contouring powder, but was pleasantly surprised by how much I ended up liking it. It's more of a darker matte brown (mimicking the colour of a tan) than an artificial shadow painted in grey. It doesn't look murky or bruised on my face, but defining and natural. It's easy to blend but hard to overdo while still remaining nicely pigmented.

Illasmaqua Cream Pigment in Hollow
I'd seen the Pixiwoo girls use this a few times in their earlier videos, so while in a contouring craze a few months ago, I purchased it from Myer for just under $30. I was curious about how a cream contour would perform compared with a powder, and Hollow seemed to enjoy near cult status. I really had high expectations and wanted to love it, but the colour let me down. Firstly, it's a bit too light to be truly effective at sculpting my face. Secondly, it applies like a subtle, putty/concrete grey on me, almost like a shadowy, milky mink, which both clashes with and disappears into my yellow-toned skin. It does blend effortlessly and isn't too opaque so it can be gradually built up with the fingers, but I need something darker and more brown.

Kevyn Aucoin The Sculpting Powder in Medium
I held off buying this for ages because the price tag made me uncomfortable. But seeing it used in this Lisa Eldridge video was the final straw. (It also popped up in a few of Tanya Burr's videos and always looked utterly transformative on her.) I couldn't wait to slap some of this on myself, hopeful it'd work the same miracles on me. Sadly, as is a recurring theme in this post, the colour wasn't right. This time, while it's not overly grey (it's definitely more brown), it's too dark and cool-toned for my liking. If you put too little on, there isn't much of an effect, but if you put enough that you can see it doing something, it looks unattractively muddy and dirty. Maybe my technique and placement isn't right, or maybe the bark brown just doesn't mesh with my skin tone. Either way, this was an expensive fail.

l-r: Illamasqua Hollow, NYX Taupe, Maybelline Contour (Medium/Dark), Kevyn Aucoin Medium

l-r: Illamasqua Hollow, NYX Taupe, Maybelline Contour (Medium/Dark), Kevyn Aucoin Medium

After my experience with various contour powders/creams from every point of the price spectrum, I've concluded the best out there for me is a tie between two bronzers: Benefit Hoola and the Sculpt shade in Charlotte Tilbury Filmstar Bronze & Glow. Warmer medium brown shades work better for me than cool grey or taupes. Oh, and the tools you use are equally, if not more important. My picks: Charlotte Tilbury Powder & Sculpt or Models Prefer Mystique Blush Brush. Both made of soft natural hairs, they pick up pigment well and make the task of placement and blending easy.

5 Products I'm on the Fence About

I thought I would love each of these products, but for whatever reason, I haven't been feeling them. While none of the products are completely abysmal or things I actively despise, my opinion ranges from still undecided (with the potential to be swayed in the positive direction) to mild dislike and the certainty that I won't be repurchasing. It's not so much these products weren't "worth the hype", but rather I feel they're not suitable for me, or I had inaccurate expectations of how they'd perform. I don't necessarily regret purchasing them, but they simply didn't turn out to be the fabulous, must-have additions I envisaged.

l-r: Illamasqua Naked Rose, Sleek Rose Gold

Illamasqua Powder Blusher in Naked Rose
Since my full review in April this year, I haven't worn this blush once. Let that be indication of how inclined I am to reach for it. I just don't think the colour works on me, an issue compounded by the fact I find it nearly impossible to get the application right. It's so pigmented that I have to be super careful with the amount and placement, otherwise it looks ruddy and overdone. Basically, too much work for something that mainly makes my cheeks look red and patchy. It's such a shame that I don't get along with Naked Rose, because it looked so promising the first time I swatched it in person. I was so excited when I bought it and planned on getting a tonne of use out of it. For me, NARS Douceur is the closest to what I thought Naked Rose would be.

Sleek Blush in Rose Gold
Frequency of use even worse than Naked Rose. Since I bought this early last year, I don't recall ever using it. Maybe once or twice playing with my makeup at home, but to the best of my knowledge, never outside the house. Once again, it's a case of the colour simply not working for me, combined with unreal pigmentation making application a daunting task indeed. Rose Gold was one of those products that I absolutely needed and coveted with a burning, sleepless intensity back in the day. As soon as it arrived at my doorstep and I tried it on, I quickly realised we simply weren't meant to be. This is just way too red on me. The shimmer is also on a whole 'nother level, making it difficult to pull off unless you want to sport glistening, reflective cheeks packed with gold shimmer. The shimmer is what makes it special, but not suitable for the daytime, i.e. the majority of occasions that I wear makeup.

Nivea Lip Butter in Vanilla & Macadamia
It's true, these do smell scrumptious, this flavour particularly. But when I think of "lip butter", I think of the Korres ones, or even the Revlon ones, though they're closer to moisturising lipsticks. I expect a plush, cushiony, thick, comfortable and hydrating texture. These aren't like that at all, which honestly surprised me the first time I used them because I'd read so many glowing reviews about how amazing they were. They're more like Vaseline. White Vaseline. The product sits on top of the lip (rather than sinking in) and feels like a waxy coating. It also has a white cast which can look unsightly if you use too much. I will not be repurchasing.

La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo
Another product I purchased because I kept seeing this touted as some skin care wonder product and of course, I needed to get my greedy little hands on it. I honestly don't know what I was expecting when I bought this. This is recommended for "mild to moderate acne-prone skin", which doesn't really describe me. I get some pimples now and then, particularly after consuming whole packets of Kettle Chilli chips, but I wouldn't say I've ever had any acne issues. Regardless, I thought it might be a good treatment to keep spots at bay and refine my skin (minimise pores, even out texture). I first experimented using this as an all-over serum under my regular moisturiser before foundation. I didn't notice anything particularly different when I did this, so eventually I just couldn't be bothered. Then I started to use this more as a spot treatment over any breakouts I had. That was a bit more effective, as the next day the area had generally diminished and become less inflamed, but it hardly cured all, and it certainly didn't make everything disappear completely, even over the course of weeks. I think this is a nice, soothing, non-irritating lotion (though personally not moisturising enough to be used on its own), but I just haven't found any kind of noticeable success with it. I have no idea how to use it in a consistent enough manner that I would see results.

Caudalie Beauty Elixir
I do like this and it's undoubtedly in the "nice to have" camp, but at the same time, I'm a bit iffy about it. If we look past the absolutely gorgeous packaging and the hype it's received, what is it anyway? As far as the ingredients list reveals, it looks to be water, alcohol and a bunch of essential oils. Alcohol is the second ingredient. Perfume is the fourth! I can never spray this directly onto my face as invariably, a tiny amount will get into my eyes and sting like crazy. I have to adopt the Lisa Eldridge trick and spray it on my hands first, rub them together, then press my hands all over my face. The instructions on the bottle suggest to apply the Beauty Elixir before your moisturiser. Maybe I'm just a skin care ignoramus, but when I've remembered to do this, I couldn't see how it made any difference whatsoever. If anything, it made my skin feel a bit drier and tighter before I slapped on my moisturiser (unless that's a good thing?). I think it does fare a bit better as something to use over makeup to refresh it and inject a bit of glow back into the face, and also as an instant mood/sensory booster due to the invigorating herbal, menthol scent.

Dusting of Rose

I've had Illamasqua Naked Rose since September last year, but still find myself on the fence about it. It's a blush that I want to, and thought I'd love, but in truth rarely gravitate towards. This was yet another New York holiday purchase (it's unbelievable I'm still blogging about stuff I bought during that time), and I remember when I first swatched it at Sephora, I thought I'd found the shade of my dreams. It looked like the perfect everyday neutral pink that I could easily envision being elevated to top position in my blush collection.

l-r: NARS Douceur, Illamasqua Naked Rose, Tarte Exposed, Illamasqua Zygomatic

Naked Rose is the only Illamasqua powder blush I own, and I find it very smooth, soft and pigmented. Other blushes I have can be almost impossible to decently swatch with my fingers unless I've gently scratched the surface with a toothpick first, but Naked Rose has no such problem. The surface of the blush never hardens. In fact, I would even say it's on the powdery side because the pigment is so soft. It's easy to loosen the powder so it's almost crumbly, especially if you come at it with a slightly spiky brush. For that reason, I wouldn't dream of using it with a stippling brush. The texture reminds me more of an excellent matte eyeshadow (think Laura Mercier) than what I'm typically used to for a blush.

It's one of the most pigmented blushes I've come across (probably rivaled only by the ridiculous NARS Sin), so I need to make sure my brush makes minimal contact with the blush. I normally use the fluffy, tapered Real Techniques Blush Brush, because anything else risks overdoing it. Maybe because it's extremely tricky to get right, most days I just can't be bothered. The colour itself I don't find to be anything special. It's just a medium, slightly reddish, dusty matte pink. While not particularly unique, it's a versatile, universal shade that could complement a whole range of makeup looks. I can't really tell if it's more warm or cool, as that seems to differ depending on one's skin tone. If there's any redness to your cheeks, Naked Rose will draw attention to that. For me, it only works paired with flawless, evened out skin, and if I get the application spot on. Otherwise, it can look messy and ruddy, and almost like my skin is having an allergic reaction to the blush.

I purchased this in the States back when Illamasqua blushes were still $42 in Australia. Kudos to the brand for dropping their prices — a blush now retails for $28, almost the same price as the US if you include sales tax.

Cream of the Crop

Along with matte eyeshadows, my other obsession lately has been cream blushes. This isn't anything new, in that cream anything (eyeshadows, blushes, highlighters) have always appealed to me, but the other night I suddenly felt like I absolutely needed one of those Stila Convertible Colours. In a feeble attempt to resist the urge to buy, I pulled out and swatched all the cream blushes and multipurpose products I had, trying to convince myself that I could do without Gerbera or Lillium.

It's no secret that I'm partial to pinks and peaches and any combination of the two, but I was a little surprised at the overall lack of colour variation in my collection and how similar a couple of the shades were (namely Australis Crème Colour in Flirtatious Pink and Bloom Sheer Colour Cream in Coy). Just goes to show that when it comes to cosmetic purchases, most of the time we're drawn to the same things over and over again.

My favourite is NYX Rouge Cream Blush in Natural (CB02). I bought this from a stall at the Chinatown night markets in the middle of last year. It's a medium, warm pink with a creamy, strongly pigmented formulation that's neither too thick nor greasy and slippery. Because of its excellent colour payoff, you only need a very small amount to blend onto the cheeks. I like to use this with my fingers, an Ecotools Baby Kabuki (for a more airbrushed flush) or a Real Techniques Expert Face Brush for slightly more precision.

I also really love Illamasqua Cream Blusher in Zygomatic, an impulse buy that I haven't regretted. It's thinner in consistency and more emollient than the NYX, which makes it easier to blend with the fingers, however it's also less pigmented. It's the most muted and neutral of the blushes I have, and the one I reach for when I want a more nude, dusty pink colour to the cheeks and to add soft definition to my non-existent cheekbones.

On the other side of the spectrum, I have the most vibrant cream blush in my collection, a bright orange from the Revlon Multi-Use Palette. This one distinguishes itself from the other five in that the colour isn't dusty, pastel or otherwise muted. It actually goes on relatively sheer but with 2-3 layers, provides more of an enlivening, summery pep to the cheeks close to Benefit Cha Cha Tint. It's much drier in texture and almost matte. However, it comes in such a tiny, inaccessible square that I almost never find myself reaching for it.

Bloom Sheer Colour Cream in Coy was on my wishlist for a few months before I finally caved. The pastel peachy pink colour was the main attraction, along with the packaging and lavender scent. This one is closest in texture and pigmentation to the NYX Rouge Cream Blush, if a tad drier. On my cheeks, I've always found the colour to be too strong and not that flattering with my skin tone, so I kind of gave up on it. Coy fares better on my lips as a warm, nude-leaning pink.

Australis Crème Colour in Flirtatious Pink was the first cream blush I ever purchased over a year ago. While swatching my blushes, I didn't anticipate it would look almost identical to Coy, as Coy always seemed distinctly more peachy to me. I find Flirtatious Pink to be much more wearable, perhaps because it's a touch more pink and rosy. Funnily enough, it's also scented with lavender like the Bloom and more or less identical in shape and size. It's a little bit drier than the Sheer Colour Cream but about the same pigmentation.

I bought Revlon PhotoReady Cream Blush in Pinched (100) from Rite Aid on my New York holiday as I wasn't prepared to spend $26.95 on it in Australia. The other two colours (a bright coral and fuchsia) seemed a bit too intimidating for everyday wear, so I opted for the safe choice — a light peach with fine gold shimmer. The texture with this one was more air-whipped/mousse-like than the thicker, creamier, emollient formulations of the other cream blushes I have. It required several layers to be built up to decent pigmentation, but the major problem with Pinched is that the staying power is close to zero. There's almost no point in wearing it unless you only want it to show up for 2 hours, so in that respect it was a major disappointment.

In sunlight

l-r: Revlon Pinched, Illamasqua Zygomatic, Australis Flirtatious Pink, NYX Natural, Bloom Coy, Revlon Multi-Use Palette

In a way, I have a bit of a love-hate relationship with cream blushes. As much as I gravitate towards them for being easier to blend and apply with the fingers, and for a more natural flush that sinks into your skin and gives a touch of dewiness, they can end up being trickier to work with than powder blushes or cheek stains. A good brush goes a long way in diffusing product seamlessly and naturally. I also find that generally, creams don't last as long on the skin as powders. Depending on the texture, it can be difficult to get just the right amount, perfectly blended without any patchiness, and for that reason I often skip cream blush for powder. However, there's something more modern, seemingly effortless and versatile about creams that will always keep me returning to them with renewed interest.

Soft Sculpture

Illamasqua Zygomatic was totally an unplanned purchase. I had already bought Naked Rose on holiday in the US less than a month earlier, and thought that effectively eliminated Zygomatic from my mental wishlist (it was a choice between the two of them, and I'd made mine). But what happens when Illamasqua decide to lower their Australian prices, making a blush almost the same price as in the US? You know what happens. An innocent trip to the Illamasqua counter in Myer, to merely check out what's on offer, with no intention to buy, of course. Until I decide to try some Zygomatic on my cheeks, and the rest is history.

In the pan, Zygomatic looks like a medium rosy brown, kind of like a dusty pink but more brown-leaning. I've been getting more into neutral blushes rather than the usual pinks and peaches I gravitate towards, and Zygomatic is exactly what I'm after. Though it swatches quite brown, it actually appears more pink on my cheeks. The effect is quite subtle and natural looking. It's not a bright or warmed up pink, it's more of a toned down, neutral pink that melds with the colour of your own skin. If built up, it can start to look more brown than pink, so I prefer to apply it lightly. I usually apply this with my fingers, mainly on the apples of my cheeks and then blending outwards and upwards, but I've tried it with the Ecotools baby kabuki brush and it worked well, though it dispersed more product over a wider area. This is a cream blush, so it's a little messier than a powder, but it texture is non-sticky and it's easy to blend.

I think this is the perfect blush to add really natural, subtle colour to your face. I often find blushes are too dark, too red, too shimmery, too bright, too difficult to apply — but Zygomatic is none of those things. This sophisticated pinky nude is soft, understated and easy going.