Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Top 5 Low-End Eyeshadow Singles

While higher end or luxury brands like Urban Decay and Burberry are known for producing buttery, highly pigmented eyeshadows, the lower end of the market, or 'drugstore' offerings can leave much to be desired. More affordable brands can often produce eyeshadow duds, with unspectacular colour payoff, a dry, hard, powdery or chalky texture, weak lasting power, and often unimaginative, generic shades that lack complexity and interest. Here are my top five mono/single budget-friendly neutral eyeshadows that I count among the best in their field for everyday, all-over lid options. I would've also included L'Oréal Infallible eyeshadows but to be honest, there's not one shade of the many I have that I'm completely in love with (though Bronzed Taupe and Tender Caramel are the closest contenders).




l-r: Maybelline Iced Fudge, Essence Party All Night, Rimmel Smokey Quartz, Revlon Polished Bronze, Max Factor Burnt Bark

Maybelline EyeStudio Mono in Iced Fudge (720)
For the longest time, I stubbornly insisted on calling this eyeshadow Iced Fudged because that's the way it's labelled on the packaging. I should accept that's clearly just a typo, since it seems this eyeshadow has experienced something of a resurgence in recent weeks with quite a few mentions on blogs and no one has ever called it Iced Fudged. Moving along, Iced Fudge is the most copper of the bunch, with a red base and frost finish. I even detect a tinge of plumminess coming through. It's very shimmery and nicely pigmented, though sometimes I wish the silver sparkle factor could be toned down just a notch.

Essence Metallic Effect Mono Eyeshadow in Party All Night (35)
Already reviewed in detail here, Party All Night is the cheapest pick, coming in at a mere $2.85. It's a more dirty yellow colour with a slight ashy bent and silver and gold shimmer. It's not as pigmented as Iced Fudge, and the shimmer is more subdued and not as distinctly frosty. Still, I think it's a sophisticated, relatively understated shade (at least for my skin tone) and well worth checking out given its unbeatable value.

Rimmel Glam'Eyes Mono Eyeshadow in Smokey Quartz (030)
I took a chance on Smokey Quartz having been curious about it for a long time but always putting off purchasing it given the obscene number of similar neutral shades I own, and the gamble paid off in spades. Featured in my November 2013 Favourites, Smokey Quartz is like a cross in colour between Iced Fudge and Party All Night, but a bit more traditionally bronze-leaning. Applied to the lids, it has an almost light taupe base with a warmer, somewhat peachy shimmer on top. Unexpectedly complex and beautiful. The texture is soft and easily to blend, one of those eyeshadows you can apply to your lids with your fingers.

Revlon Luxurious Color Satin Eyeshadow in Polished Bronze (010)
Raved about all the way back in July 2012, Polished Bronze is probably my favourite of the lot, which is surprising given Revlon are very hit and miss with their eyeshadows and overall decidedly average. Polished Bronze is more warm brown and golden in tone than Party All Night. It isn't as frosty/shimmery compared with the other shades, with more of a low-key satin finish and buildable pigmentation. Texture is similar to Smokey Quartz, soft and blendable, only very slightly powdery (if we're nitpicking). The lasting power isn't anything outstanding, but it's a solid all-rounder and the colour is perfect for a failproof neutral wash over the lids.

Max Factor Earth Spirits Eyeshadow in Burnt Bark (107)
Admittedly, I was sucked into buying this eyeshadow after hearing it was a decent substitute for MAC Satin Taupe. It's a darker taupe shade, a purplish brown-grey threaded with silver. This one is a bit harder and drier in texture, but still fine to work with and decently pigmented. It's quite cool-toned and hazy, more suited for a daytime smoky eye or when you want a bit more definition.

Saturday, February 22, 2014

Natural Aura

If there were four masks that I kept repeatedly seeing on blogs and YouTube, it would be Origins Drink Up Intensive Overnight Mask, REN Glycolactic Radiance Renewal Mask, Aesop Parsley Seed Facial Cleansing Masque and Antipodes Aura Manuka Honey Mask. Antipodes seem to have steadily captured my attention recent months, and 25% off the New Zealand skin care brand at David Jones last month was all the incentive I needed to add this popular hydrating mask to my skin care arsenal. I purchased it for just under $37 (regular price $49), lured by the promise of an "intensely moisturising, cleansing and antioxidising treatment" and exotic-sounding ingredients like the pohutukawa bloom and "traditional Māori remedy" Manuka honey.






Ingredients: Aqua (water), leptospermum scoparium mel (manuka honey), persea gratissima (avocado) oil, glycerin, cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, glycerol stearate, gluconolactone, sodium benzoate, calcium gluconate, vitis vinifera (Vinanza Grape grapeseed) extract, daucus carota sativa (carrot) oil, metrosideros excelsa (pohutukawa) flower extract, tocopherol (Vitamin E), essential oil fragrances of vanilla & mandarin: coumarin*, d-limonene*, linalool*.
*Component of essential oil


Antipodes Aura Manuka Honey Mask

Antipodes suggest smoothing a thick layer of the mask over the face and neck twice a week, leaving it on for 15 minutes and washing it off with warm water. Like all masks I use, I never bother with the neck. I've also left it on for much longer than the recommended time (until almost all the product had absorbed into my skin), and I don't think it makes any real difference to how well it works.

The Aura Manuka Honey Mask is an off-white cream colour with a similar texture to a moderately thick moisturiser. It's easy to spread and feels instantly soothing and hydrating once applied. It has a noticeable cooling, minty sensation that feels gently refreshing and calming for about 10-15 minutes but subsequently subsides. The smell reminds me a bit of raw cake batter but a bit more medicinal, not as sugary. Despite its name, I don't detect much of a honey scent at all. It's certainly not sickly sweet. There's a vague sense of vanilla coming through, but nothing distinct. Overall the fragrance is subdued and generally pleasant.

Is this the "ultimate solution for spots and blemishes" as Antipodes claims? Nope. Not even close. I've used it a few times and I don't feel it significantly contributes to blemishes diminishing in appearance or disappearing faster. I much prefer my Sukin Purifying Facial Masque for that purpose, where I can see my skin afterwards appearing brighter, clearer, more balanced and less inflamed if I'm suffering from a reaction or break out. What the Antipodes does excel at is hydration. When this is washed off, my skin is left feeling soft, nicely cleansed and nourished, like a layer of moisture has already been locked in before I need to slap on any other products. There's no dryness or irritation that come with other masks, notably the REN Glycolactic Radiance Renewal Mask, where my skin is craving moisturiser once it's washed off. Overall, while the Aura Manuka Honey Mask is hardly groundbreaking or super effective at combating spots, it's a refined, high quality mask that's gentle and comfortable on the skin, and a pleasure to use.

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Favourite Face Brushes

Last time I did a mass brush laundry day, the gorgeous Hollie of Eating Lipstick (a fantastic blog which I thoroughly recommend) asked whether I had a post about my favourite makeup brushes. While I have written individually about the Real Techniques, Ecotools and Sigma brushes I've purchased in the past, I haven't rounded up my most reached for and adored brushes in one post before. I've decided to limit my selections to face brushes only for now, since my eye brush collection, in line with my very amateur eyeshadow application/technique, needs some work. I purchased most of my Ecotools brushes from Priceline and Real Techniques brushes from S.A. Hair, Nail & Beauty Supplies in the Dymocks Building (we're talking way back when they were first released to the Australian market). If you're looking to buy online, iHerb stocks both brands and Ecotools can also be purchased from Luxola.


l-r: Real Techniques Buffing Brush, Ecotools by Alicia Silverstone Blush Brush, Real Techniques Multi Task Brush, Real Techniques Expert Face Brush, Models Prefer Mystique Blush Brush, Real Techniques Contour Brush, Ecotools Tapered Blush Brush

Real Techniques Buffing Brush
I've harped on about this brush endlessly, including in my 10 Products I Would Repurchase and Best of 2013 posts. There really isn't anything further to say. It's the best foundation brush I've used and I rely on it most days I wear makeup.

Ecotools by Alicia Silverstone Blush Brush
It's lamentable this brush from a limited edition Ecotools by Alicia Silverstone 5 Piece Brush Set can't be purchased alone and isn't being produced anymore. It's ultra soft and fluffy, with a beautiful shape just made for the cheeks, it picks up product well, blends it seamlessly, and there's zero shedding when washed. I've flirted with many blush brushes in the last couple of years that I thought I liked (namely the Real Techniques one), but simply put, this one's the best.

Real Techniques Multi Task Brush
This brush from the Real Techniques Travel Essentials Set is the closest to the Ecotools by Alicia Silverstone Blush Brush I've found. It's actually a great substitute, though the Ecotools has a more tapered shape and this Real Techniques one is a bit larger. Along with blush, I normally use the Multi Task Brush for bronzer in an attempt to contour the cheekbones. It's a good size for my plump face and the shape strikes an ideal balance between control and softly blended edges.


l-r: Ecotools by Alicia Silverstone Blush Brush, Ecotools Tapered Blush Brush

Real Techniques Expert Face Brush
Some would argue this is basically interchangeable with the Buffing Brush, possibly even the superior offering given its more rounded rectangle shape allows you to navigate the contours of the face better. I do appreciate how it performs as a Buffing Brush alternative, but my preferred use for the Expert Face Brush is to apply cream blush. It is the absolutely perfect shape for it, especially blending from the top of the cheekbones down. The thick, slightly firm bristles but relatively narrow shape diffuses product beautifully and doesn't turn your cheeks into a patchy, ruddy mess. It's excellent for cream bronzer/contouring as well.

Models Prefer Mystique Blush Brush
I was on the hunt for an angled blush brush from the likes of Sigma or MAC for quite a while, but managed to satiate my curiosity with this more affordable version from an Australian brand stocked at Priceline. Unlike all the other brushes featured here which are synthetic, this is the only one made with natural bristles. I like it for more pigmented blushes as the brush doesn't pick up too much product and it softens and tones down the colour when applied to the cheeks. Its primary function however, ever since I purchased NARS Laguna, has been in my attempts to contour my face. I'm not entirely convinced whether the angled shape really makes that much of a difference compared with something like the Real Techniques Multi Task Brush, but it seems to make the placement and blending just that little bit easier.

Real Techniques Contour Brush
One of the more versatile and underrated brushes in my collection. I mainly use it as my go-to highlighter brush (I much prefer it to the flatter and smaller Real Techniques Setting Brush for that purpose), but I imagine it'd work equally well for a broad range of uses, including contouring with both powder and cream products, more precise blush application, blending undereye concealer and spot powdering.

Ecotools Tapered Blush Brush
I initially bought this thinking it would be identical to the Ecotools by Alicia Silverstone Blush Brush, only to be sorely disappointed when I realised it was significantly flatter, more tapered, not as thick and fluffy, and larger in shape. I would have dismissed it as mostly a failed purchase, except I found it performs one function better than any other brushes in my collection: applying a light layer of Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powder over my foundation. My other powder brushes are these dense, rounded domes (like the Real Techniques Powder Brush or Too Faced Powder Pouf) which would be too heavy-handed and pack on too much product, but the relative flatness and floppiness of the Ecotools Tapered Blush Brush works to its advantage in gently dusting all over a fine finishing powder for that final, skin-perfecting touch.

Saturday, February 15, 2014

Primed for Success

Eye primers and nude cream bases play a vital role in helping powder eyeshadows appear more vibrant and last longer. An underwhelming eyeshadow can be rescued by a good primer and can transform a lacklustre shade into a better version of itself. Of course, an already impressively pigmented and long-wearing eyeshadow might not need any extra help. The preliminary step of applying a primer or base can also be effective insurance against oily lids and eyeshadow creasing, though those two issues aren't major problems for my dryish monolids. Here are the five I reach for most often.




l-r: Maybelline Color Tattoo in Barely Branded, Urban Decay Primer Potion, NARS Pro-Prime Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base, LORAC Behind the Scenes Eye Primer, Becca Eye Tint in Vicuna

Maybelline 24Hr Color Tattoo Eyeshadow in Barely Branded (70)
This light, very shimmery beigey champagne needs to be applied with caution. I make sure to pick up a very small amount with my finger and spread a thin layer to slightly moisturised lids for more slip, as it's a little dry and hard in texture at first. It's quite pigmented so applying a touch too much may overpower the actual eyeshadow, though it's nowhere near as bad as the white, frosty Too Cool (05). I find the lasting power and vibrancy of the metallic Color Tattoos to be exceptional, so Barely Branded works well to prolong wear time and amp up the shimmer factor of lustrous shades.

Urban Decay Primer Potion Eyeshadow Base
This classic eyeshadow primer is a solid all-rounder. It's a light yellowish skin colour but applies mainly transparent on the lids. It has a bit of a thicker texture but is easy to spread with good slip. It doesn't do too much for me applied to my entire lid, but proves its worth when worn just under the eyes. I find it helps eyeliner on the lower lash line to stay on and minimise bottom lash mascara from smudging during the day.

NARS Pro-Prime Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base
My opinion hasn't changed since I featured this in my August 2013 Favourites. NARS Pro-Prime would be an excellent choice for those with oily skin as it's unparalleled when it comes to making eyeshadow adhere to the lids. It's almost like it dries up the eyeshadow so it sticks to the skin and doesn't have a chance of smearing off. In a way, because it's so budge-resistant, it's harder to work with in terms of softly and evenly blending out the edges of eyeshadow or correcting eyeliner mishaps. Like the Urban Decay Primer Potion which it shares a very similar texture with (though Pro-Prime is a touch drier/thicker and not as smooth to apply), its strength is reserved for the lower lash line area.

LORAC Behind the Scenes Eye Primer
I received a 5.5g sample from my LORAC Pro Palette and was curious to see how it stacked up against eye primers from Urban Decay and NARS (included with the original Naked palette and And God Created the Woman Eye Palette respectively). I was initially surprised to find the LORAC to be much smoother, thinner and more emollient in consistency, making it infinitely easier to blend out. It's completely transparent and doesn't leave any kind of coating or texture on the skin, dissolving into nothingness on the lid. It ticks the boxes in terms of giving added depth and life to eyeshadows, but I don't think it's as strong in terms of preventing movement and encouraging eyeshadow adhesion as NARS or Urban Decay.

Becca Eye Tint in Vicuna
Every now and then I slap some Vicuna on as an eyeshadow base, primarily in an attempt to use up this unloved magazine freebie since it's basically undetectable on my lids as a cream eyeshadow. It's even thinner and smoother in consistency than the LORAC, so I have to use an absolute minuscule amount, spread thinly across the lid with my finger. It takes some time to fully set, which can be an advantage as it gives eyeshadow a slightly wet surface to stick to. Vicuna gives an extremely subtle peachy shimmer and sheen to any eyeshadow placed over it, like a low-key version of Maybelline Barely Branded. It's not meant to be a proper eyeshadow primer, so there aren't any miracles in terms of combating fading and increasing longevity. It's probably more convincing as an understated liquid highlighter for the top of the cheekbones.
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